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Routes in Crescent Wall

Cleft Palate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crescent Arch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycra Bikers From Hell T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pressure Drop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Ken Duncan, 1977
Page Views: 3,971 total, 23/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Oct 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is the very obvious, left-facing dihedral on the right side of the wall, to the right of Pressure Drop and Finger-Lickin Good. It is actually the right side of the crescent that is the wall's namesake. The bottom two-thirds of the pitch is wide and 5.10 with very little actual off-widthing required. Oddly, the 5.11 climbing starts when it turns to hands and the corner begins arching out left more. When the corner begins to drastically arch to the left (almost horizontal) an exit out right presents itself. Cross a tiny, left-facing corner (small wire) on your way out of the main corner and pull onto a slab on the right. This part felt like 5.11 to me, too. There's a fixed anchor out right on the slab (old bolts if my memory serves). Rap from here (two ropes) or continue with a short, easy pitch to a descent ledge. This is an awesome pitch (nearly 150' long) with a beautiful, aesthetic line and burly crack climbing throughout, offwidth to thin-hands. There might be a little bird-poop residue in one section of the corner and a few creaky-flake crimps on the finishing slab, but the overall quality is undiminished.

Protection

Hefty rack with doubles from #0.75 to #4 Camalot (maybe triples of 3s) and one #5 Camalot.

Photos

Brian Weinstein
  5.11-
Brian Weinstein  
  5.11-
This is a pure, quality, crack climb that is unique to Lumpy. There is a key sequence for the exit, you could definitely make this harder then 11-...but I will not give shameless beta. I faired well with only one #5 Camalot. May 22, 2008
I climbed this route a couple weeks ago, and it's one of the most fun, unique and varied lines I've done on Lumpy. Due to the long traverse to the left in the arch, and then the traverse back right to finish out, it ends up being close to 150 feet of climbing. I had doubles of everything up to #5 Camalot and having triples 2s and 3s would have saved me some gear shuffling. Surprisingly, you can rap down from the anchors and just reach the ground with a 60 m. if you angle left a ways to higher ground. The finish is memorable. May 25, 2007