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Routes in Crescent Wall

Cleft Palate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crescent Arch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycra Bikers From Hell T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pressure Drop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Caldwell, ?
Page Views: 115 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jun 13, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

Locate a tree below the left end of the large overhang. This route ascends the large, left-facing dihedral ending at the ledge with that tree. This seems to be the best warm-up pitch in the area, unless you start on the Fin City formation behind the Crescent Wall. Well protected and fairly clean, this route jams and smears the corner 80' to the ledge.

Protection

Standard rack.
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
I didn't find this route to be "clean". The left face that you smear was quite flaky. It is an okay warm-up for the area, since it is the easiest pitch under 5.11 that is not "X" rated. May 3, 2007
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Greg Miller and I did this climb to the top. Gillett says P1 and P2 FA are unknown. P3 10b past the roof was added in 1984 by Mike Caldwell and Barlow.

P1 is gnarly, unpleasant and felt pretty hard. P2 is easy but runout. Save a #2 Camalot for the middle of P2 and another #2 and/or #1 for the belay below the roof. I had neither and belayed from 2 sideways nuts in the roof. We belayed at the top of the P2 flakes rather than at the left end of the subsequent traverse ledge, so that a leader fall reaching the first bolt on P3 would not be directly onto the belay. The disadvantage to belaying where we did was that once clipped into the first bold the rope would slide to the right across the lip of the roof if the leader fell above that.

P3 is pretty friable, and is spicy getting to the first bolt with the gear below the roof. The moves to the first bolt are about 10a. Once you're clipped it's still spicy, because the bolts are quarter inchers (but the hangar looked good!), presumably from 1984. The moves past the first bolt are the 10b crux and get a touch easier as you get to the second bolt. Some easier moves, maybe 5.8 or 9, lead to a horizontal and trad gear. Greg ran it out for the full 200' far right to a walkoff ledge. Descend right via an easy flake (we belayed), more hiking, and then a squeeze down a chimney (can belay the first person). Nov 30, 2007
Kevin Gillest
Arvada, CO
  5.9
Kevin Gillest   Arvada, CO
  5.9
We climbed through the 5.5 section to the roof, single nut/sling/carabiner rappel back to the ground with a single 70m rope. Jul 30, 2012

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