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Routes in Crescent Wall

Cleft Palate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crescent Arch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycra Bikers From Hell T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pressure Drop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Hare, ?
Page Views: 5,510 total, 31/month
Shared By: Brian Milhaupt on Jun 13, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This is an excellent two pitch line that ends at the same belay as Pressure Drop.

P1. Start in a rightward traversing finger seam to the right of Pressure Drop and left of the Crescent Arch. The first 20' of traversing are the crux, 11a ,with thin feet and difficult gear placements. Continue with gradually improving feet and construct a gear belay where the crack turns vertical, 50'.

P2. Pitch two fires up the thin crack to the bolted belay. Again, the start is the hardest, followed by great finger locks with solid gear the whole way 11a.

Rappel 80' from chains. One of the bolts could use a large washer to better hold the chain.

Protection

Lots of small to medium stoppers, Aliens.
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
Another great Lumpy climb!!!!

Either commit to a hard lieback and running it out to the vertical crack (scary as shit)

or

stay low through the traverse with very thin feet and strenuous crimp lockoffs. Bring small offsets and rps for the initial traverse. About halfway, there is room for a BOMBER, offset, red alloy.

The vertical section is quite thin off the next pitch. Purple or tight blue Metolius! A variety of technique will make this section not too bad. It has good gear, so just fire it!

The locks continue to get better as you climb up. There is even a secret hold off left if you can find it!

This felt about the same as Pressure Drop. Jun 6, 2014
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Good face climbing, edging shoes would be much better then crack shoes on this pitch. I had to do a lot of mini liebacks on P2 instead of climbing it straight on as some of the locks aren't so great. Cool climb. Jun 13, 2009
Jonathan Siegrist
his truck
 
Jonathan Siegrist   his truck
 
Much, much more enjoyable and easier done as 1 pitch, rope drag is not really a problem if you use long slings at the end of the traverse and run it out a bit. Brilliant climbing! Felt easier to me than Pressure Drop. Oct 19, 2008
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
Eli Helmuth   Ciales, PR
The anchor bolts on this Lumpy classic were replaced in the fall of '06 with ASCA hardware. Ditto Malcolm's comment that this is best done as a single pitch route which I have done numerous times with one rope and no rope drag issues by using longer runners (24") at the end of the traverse and the beginning of the upper crack. Sep 24, 2007
Malcolm Daly
Boulder, CO
Malcolm Daly   Boulder, CO
This climb is easier to do as a single pitch. The rope drag sucks but less so than a stupid hanging belay 20' off the ground. 2 ropes makes it pleasant.
Mal Nov 5, 2006
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Awesome, especially p2. Nov 28, 2005
The first pitch is really not that difficult, it just makes you think. For a crack fiend, it is a little less secure considering you are underclinging the pitch. The moves off the belay on the second pitch are hard because you are trying to get away from the all the slings and RPs. The rest is ultra classic. Aug 1, 2003