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Routes in Crescent Wall

Cleft Palate T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Crescent Arch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Flight for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Friction Addiction T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Heaven Can Wait T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lycra Bikers From Hell T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Milk Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Pressure Drop T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eli Helmuth
Page Views: 509 total, 3/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Sep 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Season raptor closures Details

Description

This route starts at a small pine, 40' left of the first pitch of Heaven Can Wait (10b). Crimpy moves get you past the first bolt to the overlap which takes both small cams. The crux is getting past the next bolt and onto the easier but slightly runout face climbing above.

This is a great warm-up pitch for Lycra Bikers from Hell (12a), Poultry in Motion (11d)or Flight for Life (12a)- all classic bolted pitches to the right of Friction Addiction.

You can continue up the Crescent Wall from the top of this pitch by joining either Heaven Can Wait to the right or Hair Lip to the left.

Protection

The only pro needed is a #0 or #1 tcu for the first overlap, five draws for the bolts, and a large cord or sling for the tree anchor.

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