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Routes in Diamond Head

Cameron's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climber in the Buff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond In The Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Facets T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistful of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flaw, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kill All Bad Brown Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let It Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Let It Slide T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Let it Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Blew Me T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Shibumi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Uncle Chip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V2 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad
FA: Dougald MacDonald, Brad Bond, Pamela Emanoil
Page Views: 117 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Apr 12, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

An obvious narrow ramp bisects the main face of Diamond Head, rising from right to left at about half- height. The Flaw climbs this ramp. Approach by scrambling up ledges to the right, then across a narrow ledge with trees. From a stance where the easy scrambling ends, climb up and left about 30 feet, place good gear, then downclimb onto the ramp. From here, it's about 90 to 100 feet across the ramp, sometimes up on the wall above the ramp, sometimes frictioning on the ramp itself. Belay on the ledge system below the second pitch of Shibumi.

This is a unique and exciting pitch, with sustained 5.8 and 5.9 climbing, just enough pro and many surprises.

Protection

Bring a large set of brass nuts, wires and cams up to 3 inches. Ball nuts would be useful. Extra slings and quickdraws (or double ropes).

Photos

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Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ R
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9+ R
If there is anything that I thought I needed on this pitch, it was a few yellow Camalots.... I broke the trigger wire on the first attempt at placing mine, then found 2 more places where I wanted it later besides. Other than that, the climb was actually very good. Unique and fun, but certainly NOT for the tentative leader or second. May 5, 2008