Diamond Head Rock Climbing
|GPS:||39.938, -105.292 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||11,038 total · 49/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Mar 11, 2002|
Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
History (Admin Only): Leo Paik edited "Getting There" May 26, 2020
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
For more information visit:
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
From the Eldorado Trail, Diamond Head becomes visible once the Rincon Cut-off is passed. The crag is the tallest, and second largest of all of those in the summit chain. The crag is most easily identified by the dark, perfect south-facing slab on the upper half, rising from east to west, and split by to fabulous easy cracks, Let It Rock (5.6*) and Let It Roll (5.7). The awesome face between is Let It Slide, and the left-hand arete is She Blew Me (a pun on the original route, Shibumi). Each of these climbs are very high quality. A small summit just East of the main summit, a tower of rock, also holds the line Diamond In The Rough.
There is potential for perhaps another 10 lines to be developed at Diamond Head, and perhaps more if someone can obtain permission to add bolts.
Descent: To descend after climbing, scramble and walk off of the top to the backside in either direction, or rap from above Shibumi. The cliff base is gained by hiking down either side. This is an easy descent and should take about 15 minutes. Some down-climbing could be eliminated with the addition of slings on trees or the installation of other fixed anchors.
Per Tony Bubb: Diamond Head is not in Eldorado Canyon SP and is not under their jurisdiction.
Classic Climbing Routes at Diamond Head
Days w Precip