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Routes in Diamond Head

Cameron's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climber in the Buff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond In The Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Facets T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistful of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flaw, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kill All Bad Brown Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let It Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Let It Slide T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Let it Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Blew Me T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Shibumi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Uncle Chip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V2 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad
FA: Brad Bond and Chip Ruckgaber
Page Views: 906 total, 5/month
Shared By: Brad Bond on Feb 18, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the shallow, left facing corner about 100 feet left of Shibumi and 25 feet right of the edge of the main formation. It can be seen on the topo page 152 of the Eldorado Canyon guidebook, starting at a split block on the ledge system that traverses the formation.

Power up the steep corner via thin face moves and stemming to good holds about 35 feet up. From here, the angle kicks back and it's about .10a straight up and slightly right through a small roof to the obvious ledge sysem. Belay here or continue right and slightly down to the tree on Shibumi.

The topo says 120 feet to the ground, but one 60m rope will get you down. This route is really fun!

Protection

Rack 2 each up to a #2.5 Friend. Bring a few micro nuts for the start.

Photos

tbol
Front Range, CO.
 
tbol   Front Range, CO.
 
I thought the start of the third pitch was a little dicey for sure. After you crank a few moves, good gear can be found; however, it seems that if a hold broke high-factor fall potential is present. Good climb though. May 4, 2012
Joseph Crotty
Broomfield, CO
 
Joseph Crotty   Broomfield, CO
 
Combine 1 and 2. This would be four stars except for the 20' of choss just before the belay. We skipped the last pitch as the start looked a bit dicey and Shibumi was calling. Note, if you don't want to do P3 you can move right about 30' (5.5) and do the 95' P1 rap of Shibumi. Jan 18, 2010
Cameron's Corner is now a three-pitch route. Brad Bond, Pamela Emanoil and Dougald MacDonald added a short direct start and a direct finish to this great route. The first pitch is a shallow left-facing corner in a slab with wires and RP pro, something like 5.8+ and somewhat serious near the top. Brad Bond's 5.11 second pitch is a mega-classic -- as good as anything on Rincon. The third pitch breaks through the roof just left of the belay with unique buckets and strenuous-to-place but good pro. Continue on steep ground to the summit ridge (5.10a). Apr 15, 2002