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Routes in Diamond Head

Cameron's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climber in the Buff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond In The Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Facets T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistful of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flaw, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kill All Bad Brown Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let It Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Let It Slide T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Let it Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Blew Me T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Shibumi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Uncle Chip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V2 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad
FA: Chip Ruckgaber and Eric Johnson
Page Views: 104 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brad Bond on Sep 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

About 100 feet left of where the topo on page 152 is cut off, an obvious, large block sits in a roof about 30 feet off the ground with cracks on each side of it. This route is the left crack and the obvious line on the formation.

Crank up the corner and worm around the roof, strait up and left to easier ground. Rap off a tree or hike up and left, then down.

Anyone who has spent time with Hooey -- Eric's Chesapeake Bay Retriever -- will appreciate the name.

Protection

Pretty obvious.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10d
Here I go again- I know ratings are subjective, but... I did this one while wandering around up at Diamond head, prior to figuring out what I was getting on. Thus, I did this route without beta or bias as to it's grade.

I pulled up to the corner on the somewhat "iffy" rock. I was a little wet from the recent snow and melt-off, which explains the lichens. I was able to place enough gear (small cams on 2' runners) up under the roof to make me feel plenty safe for the roof moves. Stemming left under the roof to a foothold near the edge helped. I pulled up under the flake and around and could ALMOST reach a killer side-pull. instead of reaching the killer side-pull on the knife-blade feature, however, I pinched the edge and slapped around at the crack, moved both of my feet high end left and cranked like a fiend to match hands on the side-pull. From there it was good locks.

At 5'10" This felt like 5.10d. Once I had the side-pull it was 5.10a. I went up and down trying to grab that thing from many different feet. Now I don't know how tall you guys are, but I am guessing in the 6'0" range. Check your height for this one if you only lead 10a. In my opinion, it was harder than Tagger (10c), Grandmothers' Challenge (10c), Whiplash (10c), or Sooberb (10c). May 27, 2002