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Routes in Diamond Head

Cameron's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climber in the Buff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond In The Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Facets T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistful of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flaw, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kill All Bad Brown Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let It Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Let It Slide T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Let it Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Blew Me T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Shibumi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Uncle Chip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V2 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, TR
FA: T. Bubb & P. Spindloe, 3/10/02
Page Views: 1,207 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 9, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

There are two ways to approach this climb. If you intend to lead it (please preview it for your safety.

The name 'She Blew Me' is a pun on the nearby route Shibumi, and was made appropriate by the windy conditions during the FA. Approach as for Let It Rock, from the first pitch of Shibumi (traverse SouthEast around the corner) or rap in from above.

This route goes up the left side arete of the magnificent south side of the summit face of diamond head. This is a South-west facing, overhanging, gorgeous face route, between Shibumi and Let It Rock.

Either rap into or climb over to the base of the arete and climb it, within an arms length, and on the right-hand (south) side to the summit. This route has no protection, but is more secure than let it slide, as the holds are better. The angle of the climb, however makes it more difficult.

This route was also established via an on-sight top-rope down climb... and then climbed back up. The nature of the climbing is FABULOUS solid face climbing, although there are a few insecure moves. If this route were close to the trailhead, it would become very popular. Headpointing the route would also be possible, but it would improved with a few pieces of fixed gear (bolts). Although I frequently runout or solo 5.9, after the TR-downclimb, I did not lead this route in the conditions of that day.

For the record, the FA party has no objection to retro-bolting the line until such time as it is lead without gear. That is, if permission can ever be gained from the OSMP. It is a good route that deserves the attention that it will never get until...

The view from the summit is a 360 degree panorama, including Eldora Ski resort to the west, and the back side of the Magnificent Devil's thumb, the Matron, the Tower Of The Moon, and Jamcrack Spire, all to the East.

To descend, rap down to the horizontal crack for another stellar route, rap from the anchors near the summit on Shibumi, or scramble/walk off to either side.

Protection

This pitch is rated X and has no gear. Take a few pieces for the belays or TR it from the ledge above Shibumi or Let It Rock. As of this writing, this sketch-fest has not been lead.

Photos

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I believe this crag is on Mountain Parks/Open Space and therefore (at present) is illegal to bolt. Mar 14, 2002