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Routes in Diamond Head

Cameron's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climber in the Buff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond In The Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Facets T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistful of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flaw, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kill All Bad Brown Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let It Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Let It Slide T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Let it Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Blew Me T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Shibumi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Uncle Chip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V2 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad
FA: R. Rositer, 1980, solo
Page Views: 548 total, 3/month
Shared By: Tony B on Mar 8, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

By hiking, scrambling, or climbing, reach the lower southeast corner of the magnificent south side of the summit face of diamond head. A large horizontal crack rises from the East to west, effectively bisecting the face. From the horizontal (diagonal, if you prefer) crack, two vertical cracks rise, one after a 40' traverse to the west on the horizontal, and one after an 80' traverse. Each of these has a very small stunted tree 1/2 way up to the top.

The second crack left, about 80' left of the edge of the sumit face, and not quite to the base of the arete, is Let It Rock. This clean and solid crack is fairly short, but very good and well protected. Climb it to the sumit ledge of the crag.

The view from the summit is a 360 degree panorama, including Eldora Ski resort to the west, and the back side of the Magnificent Devil's thumb, the Matron, the Tower Of The Moon, and Jamcrack Spire, all to the East.

To descend, rap down to the horizontal crack for another stellar route, rap from the anchors near the sumit on Shibumi, or scamble/wall off. to either side.

Protection

Light Rack. - a few nuts and cams

Photos

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Jason Haas  
 
The climbing is decent, but the approach to the face/crack is AWFUL. Not worth it in my opinion, but I rated the route based on the actual climb, not the 100ft approach scramble. May 6, 2008