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Routes in Diamond Head

Cameron's Corner T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climber in the Buff T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diamond In The Rough T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Facets T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fistful of Diamonds T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Flaw, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Kill All Bad Brown Dogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Let It Rock T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Let It Slide T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Let it Roll T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
She Blew Me T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Shibumi T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Uncle Chip T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
V2 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad
FA: Chip Ruckgaber and Brad Bond
Page Views: 107 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brad Bond on Feb 11, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

About 40 or 50 feet left of "Kill all bad brown dogs" is a deep, symmetric corner.

Make a hard move up and over a bulge into the corner to a no-hands rest. Place a red camalot and continue up past tricky stem moves and RP placements until a thank-god rail can be reached out left. Continue up to easy ground and rap or scramble up and left, then down.

Protection

A good selection of small wires and brass nuts; cams (1 ea.) up to a #3 friend.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
I did this one while wandering around up at Diamond head, prior to figuring out what I was getting on. This, I did the route without beta or bias as to its grade.

I felt like the route was 10b/c, based on a comparison to other stemming routes. Ariel Book P1 (10d) is much harder, and no better protected. The Green-Spur dihedral section (9+) and Over The Hill P1 (10a)& P2 (10b) are also easier.

If I'd not found the key time to step to the right into the sidepull, I'd have had to find a harder sequence, I am sure. As for protection, it seems adequate enough, but you need to be sure of the pieces you get, which will include some quite small pcs (#00 HB anchor, for example). The route would be what I refer to as "S-" This means the route CAN be adequately protected. The question is, are you solid enough on the climb to play around with it and get it right?

This route may be height dependant, particulrly as per leg length and/or flexibility. The stemming is wide. May 27, 2002
Brad Bond  
 
We did this thing again and Eric found an easier way to do the crux. Instead of trying to stem out left, stem strait up the box and look for a finger lock up and right. Done this way the crux is entering the dihederal -- 10 or maybe 10+. Still really fun! May 15, 2002