Type: Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose,1960
Page Views: 1,218 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

This pleasant & apparently popular route ascends an indistinct line just L of the nadir of the face of this difficult-to-decipher slab. 25-30min hike from the Fall River Road Visitor's Center. Nice south exposure for fall climbing. This route is left of Indirect, and starts at the same place as Lubrication. Decent rock here but difficult route finding. Perhaps it doesn't matter once you start the route (see description & comments on Indirect, 7). Start just right of a large slab.

P1. Ascend a left-facing dihedral and connect 2 other left-facing dihedrals to a good ledge. There are some loose bits of rock here. Angling left will put you on Lubrication, 9 vs.

P2. Continue in left-facing dihedral and bear right at its top to a ledge with a large, blunt flake pointing left. Here you are above and right of the crux pitch of Lubrication.

P3. Find a pin and follow a large left-angling, left-facing dihedral to a second pin (loose). Then either pop up and right at the point of least resistance shortly above this pin (crux) [#3 Friend useful to back it up], and on to a slab OR continue up & left and over the roof/overlap at the top of this dihedral. Continue up face holds up and left, then up and right and find a belay. You might feel a bit lost now.

P4. Angle up and right, following your instinct for a line past 2 right-facing, right-angling dihedrals, up a slab, over an overlap to a ledge.

P5. From here, you have a few options. You can go up and right (4), up to a left-facing corner (6+), or up and left (Lube Direct, 9vs). I liked up.

Walk off the back and down the right side (East) of the crag. Hike down the right (East) side of the crag to the base.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 1/2 Friend/#3 Camalot. A 60m rope is useful.

Photos