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Routes in McGregor Slab

Best Intentions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Camel Toe T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flatiron of the Rockies variation of Left Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 900 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose,1960
Page Views: 407 total, 2/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This pleasant & apparently popular route ascends an indistinct line just L of the nadir of the face of this difficult-to-decipher slab. 25-30min hike from the Fall River Road Visitor's Center. Nice south exposure for fall climbing. This route is left of Indirect, and starts at the same place as Lubrication. Decent rock here but difficult route finding. Perhaps it doesn't matter once you start the route (see description & comments on Indirect, 7). Start just right of a large slab.

P1. Ascend a left-facing dihedral and connect 2 other left-facing dihedrals to a good ledge. There are some loose bits of rock here. Angling left will put you on Lubrication, 9 vs.

P2. Continue in left-facing dihedral and bear right at its top to a ledge with a large, blunt flake pointing left. Here you are above and right of the crux pitch of Lubrication.

P3. Find a pin and follow a large left-angling, left-facing dihedral to a second pin (loose). Then either pop up and right at the point of least resistance shortly above this pin (crux) [#3 Friend useful to back it up], and on to a slab OR continue up & left and over the roof/overlap at the top of this dihedral. Continue up face holds up and left, then up and right and find a belay. You might feel a bit lost now.

P4. Angle up and right, following your instinct for a line past 2 right-facing, right-angling dihedrals, up a slab, over an overlap to a ledge.

P5. From here, you have a few options. You can go up and right (4), up to a left-facing corner (6+), or up and left (Lube Direct, 9vs). I liked up.

Walk off the back and down the right side (East) of the crag. Hike down the right (East) side of the crag to the base.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 1/2 Friend/#3 Camalot. A 60m rope is useful.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.7+ PG13
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.7+ PG13
We walked off the East side, which is the "right side" facing the cliff and which was the descent mentioned in the guidebook I had (Rossiter's) at the time. Steep and a bit sandy but no problems. Feb 22, 2017
rien WaNderlust
Nederland
 
rien WaNderlust   Nederland
 
Romped up this today or a version or so of the direct. All in all super fun as you get presented with a wide variety of styles till the top. Really lots of room to forge your own sort of path to the top, and ample gear opportunities. Real fun! A trad climbers, multi-pitch playground! Can be as hard as you decide to make it with all the roofs that abound, but for the most part nothing harder than 5.9-. Amazing Estes and RMNP VIEWS FROM TOP! Appears to be rap anchors dead center up top but likely best served with two ropes. The western gully descent isn't the greatest, but it's mostly stable terrain. Cheers! Sep 26, 2015
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.7 PG13
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.7 PG13
I may have been well off route (although I followed the "You might feel a bit lost now." description!), but I encountered a couple of fairly run out sections for this climb. There was a lot of vegetation in the cracks and the face had many loose little dime size flakes, which was disconcerting when climbing friction slab 20' above pro... The technical climbing was easy, but the route finding was tricky and the pro was sparser than I would have liked.

The descent wasn't horrible to the west but also wasn't pleasant.

(The heavy precipitation in April and May of this year may have contributed to the vegetation in cracks, the loose little flakes, and the overgrown walk off...).

I saw this climb listed as one of the "100 favorite local natural climbs" at Neptune, so I decided to try it. I'd much rather do almost any climb at Lumpy rather than go here, so I don't understand why this one gets classic status....

On the plus side, we were the only ones on the rock all day, so if you are looking for a place less crowded than Lumpy with the same amazing views.... Jun 24, 2009
Did this route (or a variation of it) last summer. We climbed a fun roof above the 4th pitch at maybe 5.8. We started our 4th pitch from a small ledge above an easy face (sounds similar to Leo's description. Our 2nd pitch went slightly right through a small roof above the old manky bolt than back left into the left-facing dihedral and basically up onto a slab - full 60M pitch to a ledge system.) Look up and to the left and locate a 10-15 foot triangle looking roof. Angle up and left to the base of the roof. There is a crack with good ledges up to the the last step. Reach for some good but smaller holds on the slab and pull over onto the slab. My recollection is the pro is at your waist (good, medium-sized cam) After the roof head right and set a belay. From here, we headed straight for 1 1/4 pitches to the top with a 60m rope. Apr 5, 2002
My old Walt Fricke guidebook has FA listed as Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose,1960 Apr 5, 2002