Avg: 2.4 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose,1960|
|Page Views:||1,783 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
P1. Ascend a left-facing dihedral and connect 2 other left-facing dihedrals to a good ledge. There are some loose bits of rock here. Angling left will put you on Lubrication, 9 vs.
P2. Continue in left-facing dihedral and bear right at its top to a ledge with a large, blunt flake pointing left. Here you are above and right of the crux pitch of Lubrication.
P3. Find a pin and follow a large left-angling, left-facing dihedral to a second pin (loose). Then either pop up and right at the point of least resistance shortly above this pin (crux) [#3 Friend useful to back it up], and on to a slab OR continue up & left and over the roof/overlap at the top of this dihedral. Continue up face holds up and left, then up and right and find a belay. You might feel a bit lost now.
P4. Angle up and right, following your instinct for a line past 2 right-facing, right-angling dihedrals, up a slab, over an overlap to a ledge.
P5. From here, you have a few options. You can go up and right (4), up to a left-facing corner (6+), or up and left (Lube Direct, 9vs). I liked up.
Walk off the back and down the right side (East) of the crag. Hike down the right (East) side of the crag to the base.