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Routes in McGregor Slab

Best Intentions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Camel Toe T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flatiron of the Rockies variation of Left Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 890 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jim McGuire? Deb Thompson, LP?
Page Views: 211 total, 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 13, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a nice, little adventure for those who don't mind low angle romps like you get in the Flatirons, though this one has a more majestic setting. Unfortunately, the lower half of the climb is 5th class, and the upper half is mostly 3rd and 4th class. A 70m rope makes this just 4 pitches.

P1. To maximize the length of this little climb, start at the nadir of this section of the rock. You may wind up on the ledge 35-40 feet up. You can scramble down and left. Scamper up an easy slab to a right-facing crack/dihedral. Gain a ledge, move up to a tree ~50' up. Gain an inviting crack/left-facing flake. Move up to a tree with a couple slings with a ring and tiny link on the right. Angle left to a left-facing dihedral. Climb past a tree in the dihedral (which may give rope drag if you stay left of it. Continue up to a tree (~210') whose base makes you want to continue up to a higher tree (~245', with a bit of simul-climbing), 5.6, 245'.

P2. Angle left up a crack/mini-ramp to an overlap. Now you get the crux of the climb with a nice slab with smaller holds angling softly left where you find features to slip in small cams to protect just enough to control the nerves. Gain a big ledge with a wide crack (probably old #5 Camalot size) and belay, 5.7 PG-13, 205'.

P3. Move right and up quickly to the big, tree-strewn ledge as for Left Standard's 3rd belay. Continue up 3rd/4th class terrain angling softly left. If you stretch the rope out, you may reach a good stance with a cool, heart-shaped solution pocket, 5.4, 235'. If you belay here, #2 & old #4 Camalots are the anchor.

P4. Continue up and slightly right to gain a slab where you get into 5th class terrain again. Angle left over an overlap. Continue 4th class to the top, 5.2, 215'.

Scramble off to the left of McGregor Slab.

This certainly could have been climbed previously, but crunchy holds on the crux of P2 suggest it may not have been done much if at all previously.

Location

Approach as per Left Standard. Continue left perhaps another 100'. The very nadir of this section of the rock adds another 35-40 feet to the climb.

Walk off to the left.

Protection

We brought a rack to a #4 Camalot including #9, 10, and 11 hexes. A good selection of smaller, Alien-size cams were useful for the P2 crux slab. Longs slings are helpful for the trees along P1.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Jim, good points. FWIW, we had just done what we understood to be Left Standard a week or two prior to this route. We followed features and descriptions, and we even found gear which matched Left Standard information. In fact, we drew on one of the topos submitted for Left Standard. I'm guessing P1 may be shared with a left-most variation of Left Standard. Also, there is no way that anyone would do what we did as P2 and call it 5.3.

Edit: looking closer, your red line is one Deb considered doing at the overlap, but she veered more straight up after that overlap. That would connect your red and blue lines. That is where the 5.7 section comes in. Going off left seemed less interesting to Deb. Sep 4, 2014
This is a nice addition to describe the left side of the slab. The picture of Deb on the first pitch captures particularly well the features of flakes, trees and cracks that adorn this part of the face. Unfortunately this addition also further obscures the question of "where does the Left Standard go"? The line in the photo follows almost exactly the line I have always considered to be the Left Standard. And as far as previous traffic on this line is concerned, I still have a tattered white sling I took off the tree at the described first belay stance 40 years ago. My comment is not to criticize Leo as he does an excellent job. I just don't want low 5th class leaders scared off this line because it is a beauty and it does not have to be 5.7. Sep 3, 2014