Type: Trad, Sport, 940 ft (285 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Claude T., Mike M., & Pete B.
Page Views: 10,286 total · 62/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on May 3, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is a writeup is based upon firsthand experience, and the name and FA have been added as I have come upon the information. This is a very nice route up the left side of McGregor Slab. It probably briefly crosses Lubrication and Direct in a few spots. It has 5 pitches, of which the 2nd and 3rd stand out in quality. In some ways, P2 reminds one of P5 of Birds of Fire. Nonetheless, you may wearing a broad smile after a trip up. This is thoughtfully-bolted. It may feel runout in spots, but there is pro where you need it. Kudos to the FA.

P1. Follow 4 bolts up a low-angle slab. Watch for loose rocks on the ledges. Aim for an obvious tree with 2 slings and 2 rap rings. The crux of this pitch is in the first 10 feet; however, you can make it easier moving left of the 1st bolt, 5.7, ~125'.

P2. This is a terrific pitch. It is sustained. Slab-climbers will love this pitch. Continue up a slab, chasing bolts, popping over 2 overlaps, and weave 2 S-shaped paths up to a 2 bolt anchor. There are just enough holds to keep you going, but it is slabby enough to demand your attention. There are probably 4 cruxes (below 2nd bolt, 1st overlap, 2nd overlap, and around bolt 7), 5.9, ~175'.

P3. This is the crux pitch, but it is not sustained. It will require some route-finding. Angle right past a bolt, continue angling right to another bolt, pop over a 5.7 roof (above the bolt) on jugs. Clip a bolt and go up to a horizontal. Here's the crux. Delicately balance your way up past the next two bolts. You can go left or right at this 4th bolt (which may be a stretch). Continue up on easier terrain to a larger horizontal below a slab. Find a bolt out left. Pop up onto the slab and find the 2 bolt anchor up and left, 5.9+, ~190'.

P4. Continue up a short, right-facing corner to a slab with 4 bolts. Continue up and slightly left to a 2 bolt anchor, 5.8-, ~155'.

P5. Meander up on easy terrain angling right to a mini-headwall with a tree at a big ledge. 5.4. ~140'.

P6. Per Croy T: There is a 6th pitch that allows one to summit, part of the original FA. From the headwall anchor at the top of the 5th pitch, step to climber's left around the tree and head up into a trough and straight up. Maybe one 5.7 move and the rest is easier with plenty of protection. As of yesterday, two hefty hangers with fairly new gray and blue slings and double rap rings are within feet of the treed summit, ~140'.

To descend, you can continue to the top and walk-off right or left. Also, if you have 2 x 60m ropes, you can rap from the top of P5. Watch that flake 15' above the P4 anchor. It catches ropes.

Per Croy T: To walk off [from the top of P6], head west around the boulders and take a ramp on the back side down to the saddle. Plan on a lot of log hopping due to a blow down a few years ago.

Location

Find this climb starting just left of where the approach trail reaches the crag. Find a line of 4 bolts.

Protection

15 slings (ideally 10 24"), cams blue Alien/TCU to #3 Camalot. Wireds are optional. 60m ropes!

What worked for us:
P1. 4 QDs for bolts, green Alien, #0.75, #1 Camalot.
P2. 13 QDs (ideally many 24") for bolts, #1 Camalot, green/black Alien.
P3. 5 QDs (ideally 24") for bolts, #0.75 Camalot, blue Alien, #2 or #3 Camalot, yellow Alien.
P4. 4 QDs for bolts, cams blue Alien/TCU to #3 Camalot.
P5. Blue/green/yellow Aliens. Maybe a #0.75 Camalot.

Photos