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Routes in McGregor Slab

Best Intentions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Camel Toe T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flatiron of the Rockies variation of Left Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: who knows
Page Views: 4,236 total, 22/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This pleasant & apparently popular route ascends an actual line up the right side of this low angled, difficult-to-decipher slab. It is a 25-30 minute hike from the Fall River Road Visitor's Center. It has nice, south exposure for fall climbing. This route is right of the nadir of the face, right of Indirect, right of Direct, starting up a small, inviting, left-facing dihedral. There is good rock here.

P1. Carefully go up a slippery, left-facing dihedral (crux), with a small roof that forces you to jog left. Continue up the dihedral with good face holds left to a tree.

P2. Fire up and right on face holds with intermittent cracks and belay either at a large block or up higher to trees.

P3. Go up a left-facing dihedral and continue easy, pleasant climbing to a big ledge with trees.

P4. Go up slabs and overlaps, angling to the right to a ledge system. Exit right.

Rap 100 feet (or downclimb) and hike down the right side of the crag to the base.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 1/2 Friend/#3 Camalot. A 60m rope is useful.
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.5
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.5
Pretty great route. A granite equivalent to the 1st or 3rd Flatiron - but with more crack systems. The pitches are long. Each roughly 190' or so. There are about 5 of them to reach the ridge crest on the eastern side of McGregor Slab "summit." The stances are great. Aim for trees, and if there is not a tree, good crack systems appear when in need. Route finding shouldn't be an issue on this route if you trend continually right. Single rack to 3" with perhaps doubles in the 1"-2" range. Jun 12, 2016
timmaly
South Lake Tahoe, CA
timmaly   South Lake Tahoe, CA
Climbed this earlier this month. Fun climb in a cool setting. We were able to follow the description pretty well - just go up the dihedral and break right where it makes sense. First two pitches are the best climbing, and the start is run out. Third was more 3rd/4th class than 5th, and the last pitch was pretty short. We walked off climber's right (no need to rap) and stayed close to the rock as we descended. When you reach a break in the rock, go right and you'll end up at the base (don't keep going doing the gully or you will have to hike back up to the base). Jul 27, 2013
Blake C
Superior, CO
Blake C   Superior, CO
Went up to the slab 8-10-12, the approach trail isn't too hard to find, we got some weird looks hiking up the road through della terra. The undergrowth at the base is pretty thick, lots of wild raspberries, watch for the Canadian thistle. It will stick you. Lots of good pro placements. It's hard to make it to the trees at the first belay on a 60 meter rope, we ran out of rope just below at a small tree growing out of a crack. Overall, it is a good climb, not very difficult and well-protected. Aug 12, 2012
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
  5.7
Fun climb. The pitches were LONG, the rope (60m) was run to the end almost every pitch and 2 belays were down climbed to. Due to the wet summer, it was highly vegetated w/ grasses and moss making it slippery in places. You can make the climb go up to 5.8, but there were 5.6 - 5.7 variations to escape into if necessary. The run out sections seemed the hardest, but only because the cracks were moss-filled, forcing you out onto the slabs.

Walk off was a rough and time consuming bushwhack. Aug 23, 2010
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Great adventure on easy to moderate rock. I've soloed it, taken my wife, kids, friends, brothers and even my Dad on this. I've always angled left to the top and had a blast. Only the 1st (and 2nd?) pitch remain the same. If you like the looks of it, go there and have your own adventure. Mar 2, 2010
Joe Rice
  5.7+
Joe Rice  
  5.7+
Climbed this on May 27, 2007. Great day, fun route, 4-5 long pitches. I agree with the above two posts on the routefinding descriptions (emphasis on ‘finding!’), for most of the climb it went like this: 'maybe we need that dihedral, or the overlap over there, or the one next to it.…' The good thing is that getting off route didn't seem to get us into trouble, there seems to always be an overlap or dihedral offering good pro and moderate moves to get through. I did notice a lot of rap stations (trees at the top of pitch 1 & 2, bolts at ledge top of pitch 3) that would facilitate an easy rap descent from the first 3 pitches (except for maybe rope drag when pulling a rope).

We walked off by gaining the summit and downclimbing ledgy class 3ish rock for a bit into a fallen tree-choked gully (but try to contour close to rock so you know when to start traversing for your pack, we ended up going WAY too far down and had to repeat about ½ the hike back up, just like Dave mentions). Jul 11, 2007
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
 
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
 
Climbed here today, starting on or just left of Right Standard. The path we chose up the rock was probably some amalgamation of Right Standard, Climbing With The Camel Man, and random features. We climbed 5 long (150'+) pitches plus a little scrambling to get up and over to the east side (where we found a rap station to get us down to easier downclimbing territory). Our pitch two had a fun little offwidth that ran for about 15', and pitches four and five had some interesting unprotected (but positive holds) traversing sections. Very joyful climbing!

Old Fart is absolutely right; it'd be very difficult/humorous to try to follow any specific route descriptions. Take a look up at the rock when you're in the parking lot, pick out a couple landmarks on the formation for reference, then hike up and start climbing. Aug 1, 2003
I "maybe" did this "route" 2 years ago, and I'm still itching to get back to McGregor's! As all the posters in the general McGregor's header say "I really don't know where I was at after the 1st pitch, but there's nothing harder than 5.8". I found McGregor's to be a mellow adventure climbing outing that I hadn't experienced in many a year! This face is SOOO! featured that any topo/route description is ABSOLUTELY useless; but if you love the adventure of just picking out what looks like fun and don't need a guidebook to hold your hand, this is a fantastic place to go. Be forewarned though, that what looks like a 2-3 pitch stroll at the base is really 5-6 full rope stretchers to the top. The descent is LONG!! and not marked at all towards the end to where to turn up to find your packs at the base! All said, this rock is highly recommended for the adventurous climber looking for an alternative to the follow- the -chalk climbs of Lumpy or Eldo.

Dry as a bone and not a cloud in the sky; July 2001.

This is for the "route" that we ended up taking after the first pitch (or 2 or 3, who could tell?).

5.8 the way we went with a lot of 5.6R thrown in to keep the interest up. Jun 22, 2003