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Routes in McGregor Slab

Best Intentions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Camel Toe T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flatiron of the Rockies variation of Left Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Description

McGregor Slab is a large dome high above US Hwy. 34 as it leads out of Estes Park towards the north (Fall River Road) entrance to RMNP....it is at the RMNP village campground and lodge, just look north and up slope and you cannot miss this large, 700 foot dome with numerous dihedrals running up towards the summit. Many easy to moderate climbs of 5 and 6 pitches lead to the impressive summit...the rock quality is good and the climbing is less than vertical but fun, and routes are long. It is popular due to the easy/moderate routes available but still much less popular than Lumpy Ridge climbs. The elevation of the parking area is 8200 feet.

Addendum: watch for ticks here in the spring.

L->R:

A. Flatiron of the Rockies variation of Left Standard, 7 PG-13, 4p, 890', gear.
B. Left Standard, 2-7, 3-5p, 600-900', gear.
C. Up, 8, 6p, 900', gear.
DF1. Overhang, 7, 5p, 900', gear.
E. Camel Toe, 9+, 5p, 800', bolts & gear.
F1. Lubrication, 9 X, 6p, 900', gear.
F2C. Lube Direct variation, 9 X, 5p, gear.
GH3. Direct, 7, 4p, gear.
H1. Miss Direct, 7, 6p, 900', gear.
H2. Mr. Direct variation, 7, 3p, gear.
H3. Indirect, 7, 5p, 900', gear.
I1I2. Incorrect, 7, 3p, gear.
I2. Climbing With The Camel Man, 8, 5-6p, 900', gear.
J. Right Standard, 6, 4p, gear.
KJ. Rag Head variation, 8, 1p, gear.
L. Camel Jockey, 7, 3p, gear.
M. Double Hump, 8, 5p, gear.
N. Scramble, 0, 4p, gear.

Getting There

Park at the Fall River Visitor Center/village lodge parking lot, cross street, hike east of the new lodge/cabins up a gully, and follow obvious path that leads angling left and uphill for 30 minutes to the base of the crag. The trail starts in a gully:



Per Ross Swanson: 2016 update - start just above pavilion on EAST side of new lodge.

Access issue update

Per Greg Sievers Update 4-09:
1. The campground is now defunct.
2. The new Della-Terra lodge owners are very cool about climber access.
3. Do not park on the Della-Terra paved areas.
4. Parking available in NPS lot on south side of highway
5. Parking also available in Highway roadside dirt lot.
6. Hike up ravine to east side of Della-Terra lodge.
7. All climbers that choose to top-out, I would recommend descending to the west. Some guidebooks say east; but you'll hate that choice.
8. Restrooms & water (and snacks) available at NP Village North next to RMNP visitors center across the highway.

8 Total Climbs

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Rick Blair
Denver
Rick Blair   Denver
There are 2 distinct trails. One that goes directly up from Della Terra is heinous unless you like walking on granite ball bearings. The one slightly East (looker's right) is the one you want. On the descent, it is easy to get to on the crappy trail. There is a fork at a large boulder/outcrop. Aug 4, 2016
This place is awesome. Super cool, great quality, multi-pitch climbing! Mostly slabby, with interesting corners, cracks, flakes, and dihedrals. Reminded me a bit of Whitehorse Ledge in New Hampshire but with more features to use as pro!

The access is fine. The inn does not mind. An employee in a golf cart gave us a lift up the hill from the street to the gully. Sep 17, 2014
Scott McMahon
Boulder, CO
Scott McMahon   Boulder, CO
There is an actual climber's trail at the top of the driveway that starts out looking like a runoff trail, but it is the start of the climber's trail. You can bushwhack too up the ravine, too, but it's my understanding the owners don't have an issue. We did however try to keep "out of sight/out of mind" as much as possible while on the property.

Please post up if you know otherwise. Aug 25, 2014
Mark Roth
Boulder
Mark Roth   Boulder
Does anyone know if Della-Terra minds if you walk up their driveway? This would be the best approach if it's allowed, since the well marked trail starts on the hill right behind/above the lodge. If you want to avoid their property, hike up the gully to the East, but make sure to traverse left to meet the good trail. We tried to follow the gully all the way up and wound up bush-whacking. At least we found the trail on the way down.... Jun 17, 2011
Scott Matz
Loveland, CO
Scott Matz   Loveland, CO
Great slab, with excellent rock. One of my favorite approaches (LOL). I'd say this is better than Grey Rock, or Cedar Park slab by far. Sep 28, 2009
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
Update 4-09
1. campground is now defunct.
2. new Della-Terra lodge owners are very cool about climber access.
3. do not park on the Della-Terra paved areas.
4. Parking available in NPS lot on south side of highway
5. parking also available in Hwy roadside dirt lot.
6. hike up ravine to east side of Della-Terra lodge.
7. all climbers that choose to top-out, I would recommend descending to the west. Some guidebooks say east; but you'll hate that choice.
8. restrooms & water (and snacks) available at NP Village North next to RMNP visitors center across the highway. Apr 30, 2009

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