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Routes in McGregor Slab

Best Intentions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Camel Toe T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flatiron of the Rockies variation of Left Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 660 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bob Bradley and Paul Mayrose
Page Views: 1,084 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Another quality McGregor Slab outing. Although it is named for the prominent overhang on the left center of the face, it is quite possible to do the route without grappling with this feature. Start well left of the center of the face at the highest point of the base of the slab.

1) Start off a sharp flake and up a short face and right-facing dihedral to a small ledge, 150 ft. 5.6.

2) Wander up through dihedrals and arches a bit right to the big ledge below the overhang, 100 ft. 5.5.

3) Like most McGregor routes, several options are possible here;

  • a) straight up into the imposing overhang, 5.7. Although not to be intimidated as one does not pull over the overhang so much as sidle left through a notch to easier climbing above.
  • b) Traverse down and left around the overhang and back up right to easier ground.
  • c) Steeper options through the overhand beckon to the right.

4) Much easier climbing moves up and right under another arching overhang and a belay around its end, 150+ ft. 5.4.

From here, one can go straight up to the top on easy terrain or traverse left along a ledge system and descend the gully on the left side. The second option is shorter than going over the top but involves some 4th class downclimbing or a rappel into the gully. The left gully is also more of a tree-clogged bushwhack than the right side descent.

Protection

Standard rack with emphasis on small gear.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
You can start with P1 of Camel Toe and then angle left to add another 240' of climbing to get ~900' of climbing. Note, this climb joins the end of Lubrication's P3. May 14, 2007