Avg: 3.1 from 27 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||9,966 total · 43/month|
|Shared By:||Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Start: approach the face from the right side where a climber's trail winds up the hillside then cross over to the extreme left base of the slab. Virtually every guidebook describes the start of the climb (and the climb proper), as going up a right-facing flake system on the left side of the slab. However, beginning up a pine-studded slab just left of the right-facing system is a better option.
P1. Wander up the slab past a large, bushy pine to a belay near a broken flake with a pink rock scar, 5.2.
P2a. Move left into a crack system that angles up towards the left side of a prominent right-angling overhang, 5.3. For a shorter pitch to facilitate communication, belay on a ledge with a small tree just below the overhang.
P2b. Angle right in the second right-facing dihedral that aims for the right end of the overhang. Belay in a pod of sorts with 2 fixed wires, briefly 5.7, 160'.
P3a. Pass the overhang on its left, and move up a fine crack-laced face to a nicely exposed belay at a flake up and left, 5.3.
P3b. From the pod on P2b, continue up the corner until big knobs on the left invite you too loudly, and angle left to the tree-filled ledge, 5.6, 190'.
P4. Go straight up a crack to the end of roped climbing, (that is, if you are using one), at large, broken, vegetated ledges, 5.2.
Either continue to the top and descend down the east side or, quicker, downclimb-rappel into the left gully. This is 4th class with many intermediate ledges and trees.
or P4b & P5b. Continue up 4th class terrain to the summit.
An excellent 5.5 variation goes directly up from the first lead through the center of the prominent overhang via a singular, beautiful, left-angling crack. These upper pitches are among the finest I have experienced at this grade.