Avg: 3.2 from 20 votes
Routes in McGregor Slab
|Best Intentions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Camel Toe T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Flatiron of the Rockies variation of Left Standard T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Left Standard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Right Standard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||7,751 total, 40/month|
|Shared By:||Jim McGuire on Dec 31, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAlthough treated rather dismissively by most guidebooks, this is one of the better easy routes to be found out there. It is relatively long (3-4 pitches), nicely exposed, and has a fine position high above the Fall River Valley. As for most McGregor routes, the endless options for variation have caused confusion in identifying the designated path. Yet, the left side of the slab has some more well-defined features that set it apart. I suppose this could be done in 2 60m pitches, but for convenience I describe it in 4 100-120 foot leads.
Start: approach the face from the right side where a climber's trail winds up the hillside then cross over to the extreme left base of the slab. Virtually every guidebook describes the start of the climb (and the climb proper), as going up a right-facing flake system on the left side of the slab. However, beginning up a pine-studded slab just left of the right-facing system is a better option.
P1. Wander up the slab past a large, bushy pine to a belay near a broken flake with a pink rock scar, 5.2.
P2a. Move left into a crack system that angles up towards the left side of a prominent right-angling overhang, 5.3. For a shorter pitch to facilitate communication, belay on a ledge with a small tree just below the overhang.
P2b. Angle right in the second right-facing dihedral that aims for the right end of the overhang. Belay in a pod of sorts with 2 fixed wires, briefly 5.7, 160'.
P3a. Pass the overhang on its left, and move up a fine crack-laced face to a nicely exposed belay at a flake up and left, 5.3.
P3b. From the pod on P2b, continue up the corner until big knobs on the left invite you too loudly, and angle left to the tree-filled ledge, 5.6, 190'.
P4. Go straight up a crack to the end of roped climbing, (that is, if you are using one), at large, broken, vegetated ledges, 5.2.
Either continue to the top and descend down the east side or, quicker, downclimb-rappel into the left gully. This is 4th class with many intermediate ledges and trees.
or P4b & P5b. Continue up 4th class terrain to the summit.
An excellent 5.5 variation goes directly up from the first lead through the center of the prominent overhang via a singular, beautiful, left-angling crack. These upper pitches are among the finest I have experienced at this grade.