Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 13,480 total · 62/month
Shared By: Tyler Jones on May 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

340 Opinions

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This climb starts 10 feet left of Left Handed Jew. Begin by getting on top of a boulder at the base of the climb. Continue up through a beautiful 5.7 flake/crack. Move right into a large fist jam crack to finish the last 20 feet.


Bring cams ranging from #0.75 Camalot to #3 Camalot. A toprope can be set up if you hike around to the right and find a large boulder at the top.
Fun, short route. It is a great route for those who are starting to lead trad. The straight forward crack has hidden jugs inside of the crack that make it a great starter. Excellent rock quality. Jun 13, 2001
Excellent first 5.7 lead (it was mine): its short (unfortunately) and the gear is superb! Its nice to place a 2.5 Friend once on top of the boulder, but then beautiful stopper placements are everywhere. A 3.5 Friend is nice for your last piece in the large fist crack before the top! Nov 25, 2001
Chris Dawson
Grand Junction, CO
Chris Dawson   Grand Junction, CO
Is this climb actually called Honky Jam Ass Crack? Seriously? I thought it was Honky Ass Jam Crack.... either way, good grief. Sep 20, 2004
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
Michael J Yarros   Colorado Springs, CO
Took Victor on his first crack climb. He did excellently. Jul 4, 2005
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
This one felt a bit harder than the route to the right. Aug 20, 2005
Pat W  
Nice route, eats up gear, bulletproof So Platte granite. Be careful setting up a toprope, there's a rope eating flake in the wide crack at the top. Set a directional off to the side to keep both strands out of the crack. Good stuff, more stars if it were longer. Jun 12, 2006
Count Chockula
Littleton, CO
Count Chockula   Littleton, CO
Well protected and sustained at the grade. Instead of climbing the offwidth section of crack straight up, I downclimbed and stepped across into the hand jam/lieback crack on LHJ to finish the pitch. I just couldn't get my hands deep enough for solid jams and I was pumped. Found this one section harder than any move on LHJ. Guess I need to work on my offwidth skills. Jul 16, 2007
Anonymous User
Anonymous User  
I had a great time on Honky Jam and Left Hand today. Honky Jam was my first 5.7 lead climb and first primarily crack climb. The crack made for excellent cam placements so I felt pretty secure on lead. I was stuck for a while at the crux near the top, but finally trusted my hand jams and made it up a good fist jam. On top we set up a top rope (using 2 20-foot slings around some boulders) above Left Hand and then climbed that twice. Left Hand is a great crack climb. It may have been because I was leading, but I thought the crux on Honky Jam was a little harder than Left Hand's crux. The beauty of the area and today's perfect weather made this a fantastic day of climbing. May 11, 2008
Steve Knapp
Highlands Ranch, CO
Steve Knapp   Highlands Ranch, CO
Led this route, one of my few true crack climbing leads. It was enjoyable with a tricky crux. The crux is about 2/3 way up where you really have to rely on the hand jams because the crack won't take feet there. This climb is great because you can jam the crack for practice as well as find other holds outside of the crack. Nov 2, 2008
sstrauss   Denver
It's an okay route. Look for the jugs deep in the crack. There are also features on the face to help out. You can really smear the face with the type of rock. Though Left Hand Jew is a much better route. Jan 25, 2010
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
A fun, short route with great gear. Great for the beginning trad leader I'd say. As mentioned, look for jugs deep in the crack. Nov 18, 2013
William Thiry
Las Vegas
William Thiry   Las Vegas
A little more difficult that Left Hand Jew - and not quite as good, this route might feel easier for people with bigger/meatier hands. May 19, 2014
Cody Goldberg
Lakewood, Colorado
Cody Goldberg   Lakewood, Colorado
Absolute fun. Do it on lead with only active hexes and tricams for extra style points. Jul 15, 2018