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Routes in Turkey Perch

Alligator Skin (aka Cold Turkey) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bloody Englishman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gobble Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Cobbler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honky Jam Ass Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lack Crack (originally entered as Moderate 2) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Handed Jew T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liquid Acrobat T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Mark of Zorro T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moderate 2 (originally entered as Lack Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moderate 1 T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phist Full of Turkey TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ragger Bagger T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reefer Madness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sangaphogos aka Easy Off-Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short and Sweet V2 5+
Steppenwolf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stiff, Little Fingers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turkey Sandwich T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch Offwidth T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Dennis Jackson, 1976
Page Views: 6,697 total, 33/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Mar 31, 2001 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Starts just right of Reefer Madness and a bit left of Gobbler on the Turkey Perch. Take the awesome hand crack at twin cracks and continue up the corner crack as it gradually becomes fists and then offwidth up a very steep and awkward corner (crux) for 20 sustained feet until a nice fingerlock saves you from the wide section...pull onto a large sloping ledge below a large roof. Tackle the roof using 2 cracks for pro and jams and stem/chimney your way between blocks on both sides to easily turn the roof and up to a tree anchor.

Protection

Medium to large cams (#3, 3.5 and 4 Camalots) for the crux wide section.
marshall moose
Golden, Colorado
 
marshall moose   Golden, Colorado
 
Super fun... for me there was an awesome no-hands knee-jam rest just below the thank-God fingerstack... the bad news is after resting I went to move up and realized my knee was totally stuck! All I kept thinking was 'you know, it's just a numbers game really. You climb enough offwidths, eventually you're going to get your knee stuck in one and shit yourself'. I made it out w/o shitting myself... this time. Mar 28, 2015
I enjoyed the route, didn't really know what I was getting into, but Jimmie Dunn said to try it so I did. Great moves, and a fun deep section. Oct 13, 2009
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
I found the weirdest part to be just around the left of the first roof thing, as you have to put your arms deep in there to grip the edge of the crack. Kind of awkward. Oct 18, 2008
Lee Smith  
 
I second the pants idea. The offwidth section was a thrash for me and beat me to a pulp. I plan to come back and do it in better style 'cause it is a great route! Nov 25, 2007
If it is not too hot, I recommend wearing pants.
It can be a real meat grinder. Aug 20, 2007
Count Chockula
Littleton, CO
Count Chockula   Littleton, CO
Sweet route all the way. Be aware that there is a very loose, thin flake on the right once you get into the offwidth. You can see them in this photo, just above and left of the climber's head. I felt it flex and crack when I crimped on it to pull through the crux. Jul 16, 2007
Andrew Ingraham
Conifer
 
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
 
Wow. It had been at least seven years since I had been on this route, and I had never lead it. The offwidth is a much different experience on the lead. #1-4 Camalots. Apr 2, 2007
A nice variation at the top (if you're bored, a bit twitchy, and 'need' a bit more climbing) is to step right at the twin cracks above the ledge into an angling seam that shoots out right and tops out. Adds a few balancy, vaguely-nerve-wracking moves to a great route. The right-angling seam (10' below top?) is clearly visible in the photos.

This crag is so cool! Jul 18, 2006
Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
  5.8+
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
  5.8+
Thanks bro.... Yes, I am indeed in love with Ragger Bagger. The offwidth section of this climb makes the route very worth doing. But it is really really hard to do at night with only a headlamp.... Twin cracks prior to crux are genius. Very worthwhile route! Jan 24, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.8+
Buff Johnson  
  5.8+
This is about as much fun as you can have at the Perch. Excellent rock quality. I think you may be offered 4 different climbing techniques throughout the pitch (face, crack, OW, & chimney). The crux works you over, but great protection, & a really nice handcrack. I found your left foot placements are key in moving through without pumping out on the crux.

I bring a #5 Tech Friend to slam into the final offwidth. I keep forgetting that the OW is there, but am so used to needing a large cam at Turkey that I just automatically end up with it on my rack. I've face-climbed by the OW section a few times, but the last time - Ah screw it, I just chicken-winged the deal.

Tree anchor up top & walk off. (If you didn't get it clean, a good piece of advice a friend gave me: saddle up and ride 'er again!). Maybe bring half a Nalgene full for a little re-hydration, gets a little hot.

Bro had to climb it at night, he's in love I guess. Jan 20, 2006
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.8+
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.8+
I just wanted to apologize for being the one who stuck the #4 camalot thru the crux. That is the only cam I have ever lost and I am planning on returning with equipment to remove it from the route. Oct 8, 2005
Paul Sampson
  5.8
Paul Sampson  
  5.8
Fun, fun, fun! I highly recomend it! Jul 28, 2004
shad O'Neel  
 
I found the crux 'offwidth' section to be fairly mellow, and protectable with a blue camalot. I used a #4 in the roof section, which is good fun and then thought the mental crux was the last 5 feet since you have let your guard down and ragger bagger hasnt quite given up yet. sustained 5.8 and really good every move..... Jul 19, 2004
First ascent by Dennis Jackson in 1976. May 20, 2003
I agree completely with Peter's comment. Every time I go to the Turkey Rocks area, I end up climbing either Ragger Bagger or Steppenwolf, or both - regardless of what I came there to do. May 9, 2002
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Ragger Bagger and Steppenwolf are, in my humble opinion, the two best climbs on the Perch, and are probably the test to see if you should be leading anything else in the area such as the great 5.9 routes on Turkey Rock itself. Reefer Madness would be a close third best route. May 9, 2002
The offwidth section is kind of weird - not straight in. There is a hand-sized crack deep in the recesses of the offwidth part that I was able to protect with a #2 Camalot and a 2.5 Friend, thus avoiding having to place a #4 (which I didn't have). Jan 1, 2001