Type: Trad
FA: Steve Cheyney in the early 1970s. First as a top rope and then a lead.
Page Views: 12,716 total · 58/month
Shared By: Matt Bauman on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

262 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is a very cool crack on the Turkey Perch just right of Gobbler. It goes straight up hand crack that widens to fist and a 6 foot wide section that is hard. Just above this wide pod is hands that gradually get smaller to steep, shallow corner with offsize fingers (crux) that dies out at a bulge. Make reachy move to big hold to "escape" this blank section and move up to perfect hands on a less steep slab to a large tree belay (100 feet I'd guess). This is very sustained the whole way....


Small to large cams.
This is, IMO, the best of the routes at Turkey Perch. Sustained, varied climbing that will require about every size piece on your rack (except perhaps a Bigbro). Two distinct cruxes - the OW bulge and the off-finger crack right before the ledge. Both are solid 9, with sustained 8 the rest of the way. May 24, 2001
First ascent by Steve Cheyney in the early 1970s. First as a top rope and then a lead. Very dicey pro with hexes and stoppers! Named of course for the Herman Hesse novel. May 20, 2003
Wow. Amazing climb.Note: Watch out for a bat that lives in the off-fingers section (as of 10-11-03), just below the face climbing part. Oct 13, 2003
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Are there any bad routes here? Haven't found one yet. I got worked by the fingers section but stuck with it. Jun 2, 2004
Colin Coulson
Colin Coulson  
There are decent anchors on top of this one- a cord and a sling from which you can top rope or rap with a 60 meter rope. This anchor is shared with Gobble Up. If rapping be careful to find the center of your rope as a 60 m cord will put your tails about 4 feet of the ground. Sep 7, 2004
Chris Dawson
Grand Junction, CO
Chris Dawson   Grand Junction, CO
Hey everyone, notice how in the picture above, the route Honky Ass Jam Crack is listed hilariously as Honky Jam Ass Crack. Oh god, that is funny. Sep 20, 2004
Andrew Ingraham
Andrew Ingraham   Conifer
Excellent route! The offwidth was the crux for me, although the hands section got me pretty pumped. Absolutely beautiful moves through the hands and onto the face. Mar 29, 2006
Pat W  
Placed two #3s (Camalot) and a #4. Bring big stuff if you want to sew it up. Nice route. Jun 12, 2006
Luke Clarke
Luke Clarke   Golden
This is a great route and it may be they are all good on the south face. Second the gear recommendation for two #3s and a #4 Camalot to keep your mind easy through the wide part without back cleaning or leap frogging. I am sure some people can do without because the wide part is not the crux. I figured that came in the upper finger crack, which protects well with finger-sized cams (which finger cracks so often do). Jun 26, 2006
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
This route was great! I got pretty pumped a couple times and wasn't sure if I would make it first go but I kept fighting and made it through the OW crux, the slim hands and fat fingers crux was tough too but I sturggled less there.

2 #3s, a 3.5, 4, 2 # 2s 2 #1s and that's about it, I still leapfrogged gear though.

I was sweatingh at the top, my face was so drenched I felt like I was crying or something. Jun 11, 2007
Parker, Colorado
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
IMHO, I think that this is a good route to gain confidence making the crux move with gear below your feet. The gear is good and the fall would be pretty clean. For the crux, I had a bomber yellow Alien and a #0.3 BD Camalot right above it. Very fun route requiring every technique in the book. Jun 18, 2007
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
I felt the crux was the awfulwidth (my nemesis) and am in general very weak on it. However, I felt remarkably safe with just 2 #2s and one #3. There is a decent placement for the number 3 before the ow gets hard, and there is a bomber placement for the #2 at the crux, just reach deep in that crack. May 24, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
High-top shoes will save the ankles some wear and tear on this one. Feb 26, 2012
Mark Wyss
Denver, CO
Mark Wyss   Denver, CO
The OW crack section can be protected well with a 3, 4, and 5 cam. Sep 24, 2012
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Super fun climb! The wide part is tricky but not as bad as it looks, so don't let it intimidate ya! Super stoked to get the onsight on this one, have at her! Mar 17, 2014
Sam Jones
Colorado springs
Sam Jones   Colorado springs
What a stellar line! This is my favorite at The Perch. I'll second the motion to bring a #5 Camalot, as I found it protected the OW section perfectly. Apr 4, 2016
Jordan Pitts
kansas (the abyss)
Jordan Pitts   kansas (the abyss)
Whipped on the crux at highest possible point. 20'+ fall, I'll blame it on the heat;) Apr 8, 2019