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Routes in Turkey Perch

Alligator Skin (aka Cold Turkey) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bloody Englishman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gobble Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Cobbler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honky Jam Ass Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lack Crack (originally entered as Moderate 2) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Handed Jew T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liquid Acrobat T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Mark of Zorro T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moderate 2 (originally entered as Lack Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moderate 1 T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phist Full of Turkey TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ragger Bagger T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reefer Madness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sangaphogos aka Easy Off-Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short and Sweet V2 5+
Steppenwolf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stiff, Little Fingers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turkey Sandwich T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch Offwidth T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: [TR Steve Hong, '79; lead Leonard Coyne, '80]
Page Views: 3,056 total, 15/month
Shared By: Tyler Jones on May 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on the far left side of Turkey Perch. Climb a very thin and flaring crack for 25 feet using very technical footwork. Stem over to your right into another flaring crack (crux .12a). After this move, continue up through an easy section to the large belay ledge next to a pine tree. This route is a great toprope and is fun to see how well your footwork is.

Protection

If you would try to lead this, bring small cams and some stoppers. The crack is flaring, thin, and very difficult to get pro in. This route is best toproped by going around to the left and hiking above to a pine tree where a large rock sits to make a good anchor.
Nelson
FT Carson
  5.12a
Nelson   FT Carson
  5.12a
It is a hard climb but really doesn't deserve the R rating. Me and a buddy from Boulder hopped on it one day for the onsight, but I was shot down right off the ground. I had placed a orange TCU from one move up and slipped the cam held though. We then pulled the rope and I remember getting a blue TCU below the crux and a purple a foot higher the purple also held a fall. It was super dope stepping right onto a polished nipple and hitting the flare that starts the upper crack. The top is a cake walk but would be the only reason why it would have a R rating. Apr 6, 2009
climber73
Fort Collins, CO
 
climber73   Fort Collins, CO
 
I led this route with all cams, placing gear on lead after working the moves out on TR. There is an amazing yellow TCU just before the crux with a great stance to place. I fell at the crux, hung for a few minutes, then fired the crux and put in a #2 Camalot at the wonderful hand jam section after the crux. Yes "R", but great gear. I need to go back for the redpoint (or headpoint I guess).

Make sure you have an excellent belayer for this one. Jul 23, 2007
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Bob, Jimmy is way off on this one. I'll be seeing him next weekend and will set him straight. I think Harrison led it at about the same time as a kind of warm up when he was attempting to free Jello Party. Jul 9, 2005
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jimmy Dunn recently informed me that I had been the nut who first led this little climb. I did lead it in the Fall of 81 but I'm sure that Leonard Coyne did it first in 80. I know for certain the first ascent was done on top rope by Steve Hong in 79. It's a great problem and more or less safe. Jul 8, 2005
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12a
The gear is decent getting up to the crux transition (TCUs, .75 and #1 camalot). I placed a blue/black alien hybrid that caught a couple of short falls (its about foot level when you are firing for the right side pull) after that, you dont really get a piece, several more insecure moves until the first hand jam (if you fall here, you might deck, hence the R rating). After deforming the lobes of the alien a bit, I weenied out and set up TR.

pretty stout little climb. Stretch your lats before this one! Way harder than Stiff Little Fingers. Jun 13, 2005
TBD
  5.12a
TBD  
  5.12a
From TR, 12a seemed right on the mark (perhaps soft by some platte standards). If I were to lead it, I would pre-place the gear. However that's not great style, and perhaps not worthwhile, sinces it is so easy to TR. Regardless, there is certainly adequate gear if you can place it. Cudos to anyone who has lead this ground up. Sep 7, 2004
It's actually semi-safe to lead if you A) get a spot until you place a nut at ~20 feet, and B) can place a #3 or #4 RP above your head from a pretty poor stance. I led it once, I wouldn't do it again. In Boulder Canyon, it'd be an 8-bolt 12c. Sep 20, 2001