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Routes in Turkey Perch

Alligator Skin (aka Cold Turkey) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bloody Englishman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gobble Up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gobbler's Cobbler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honky Jam Ass Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lack Crack (originally entered as Moderate 2) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Handed Jew T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Liquid Acrobat T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Mark of Zorro T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moderate 2 (originally entered as Lack Crack) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moderate 1 T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phist Full of Turkey TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ragger Bagger T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Reefer Madness T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sangaphogos aka Easy Off-Width T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Short and Sweet V2 5+
Steppenwolf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stiff, Little Fingers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turkey Sandwich T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch Offwidth T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wide Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,589 total, 61/month
Shared By: Tyler Jones on Feb 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a great warm-up route! The first thirty feet is perfect handjams. After that, either cross over to the left into a large 5.7ish crack or continue straight up in a thin, but fun, crack. Finish over the bulge at about 65 feet up.

Protection

Use pro up to 3", however #1 and 2 BD Camalots are very helpful. If you want to top rope, hike around to the top and rap a big sling around a boulder.
The boulders were a good 5-6 ft away from the ledge. I've never had to extend the anchor pt this far. I'm guessing the best way is to bring a static rope? Or is it safe to extend the master point over the ledge with girth hitch chord and/or slings? Nov 6, 2017
Ryan-T
Edgewater, CO
  5.8
Ryan-T   Edgewater, CO
  5.8
Great route! We top roped it a few times and then lead it. I found it easy to protect. In true cowardly fashion, I used my new 5, but it was probably not worth the weight! Definitely a good stepping stone for the budding trad leader! Sep 17, 2015
Peter Hoburg
Park City
  5.8
Peter Hoburg   Park City
  5.8
First real crack climb I have done. Every jam was super solid even when it started raining halfway up our second burn. Really good route to practice placing gear and crack technique on. Jul 20, 2015
Dave Carey
Morrison, CO
  5.7
Dave Carey   Morrison, CO
  5.7
Surprised this is a 5.8 on MP. Compared to any other 5.8 I've done, this one goes pretty easy. Best crack climb I have done yet though (in my 5.7 - 5.9 crack grade). A repeater for sure. Aug 9, 2014
William Thiry
Lakewood, CO
  5.8
William Thiry   Lakewood, CO
  5.8
Better than a warm-up. For climbers at the grade, this is the main event at the crag. Wonderful climb. May 19, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
My favorite route for the grade by faarrr here. Perfect everything. I like how it gets smaller and smaller on ya. I worked out left before the mini-roof back to the .7, and it made it way fun. Must do. Bring 0.5-2 (a 3 if you're uncomfortable finishing up the neighboring .7). Nov 18, 2013
Deke Doty
Fort Collins, Colorado
Deke Doty   Fort Collins, Colorado
Perfect hands! I climbed it for twenty years before I was shown by old local badasses, that the original line goes straight up the bulge. My ol' guidebook didn't have this info. Also didn't have "Cold Turkey." Is it any good, or is it as granular as it looks? Nov 3, 2013
PhillR
  5.7+
PhillR  
  5.7+
Really fun crack that everyone should do. You can set a top rope by scrambling far right and up. There are a few boulders to sling that are super safe. Also, the greatest hand jams imaginable for the grade. Nov 24, 2012
Jim Parker
Lafayette, CO
Jim Parker   Lafayette, CO
SO good! Pulling the thin crack above (If you don't go left) feels 5.9ish and runout on the slab above. Worth doing on toprope if you go for the original finish. Jul 7, 2011
Mike Wallace
Summit County, CO
 
Mike Wallace   Summit County, CO
 
Linking the jams, feeling the flow. This crack is fun. Sep 13, 2010
Rick Blair
Denver
  5.8-
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.8-
The crux is truly comparable to other 5.8s I have done, so I feel the rating is fair. Big committing moves to get over reminiscent of bouldering but you can slide a cam in above the crux and put yourself on TR... so go for it. I climbed while it was a little damp, so I had to lean waaaay back to get feet. Jun 21, 2009
colin tuck
Moab
colin tuck   Moab
Did this climb shortly after sunset. Moving out of the handcrack at the top is tricky in the dark. traversing to the top of HJAC requires a few little smeary moves that were impossible to see. However, I would only call it 5.8 in the dark. Fun! May 19, 2008
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
Out of curiosity, what the consensus rating going straight up above the overlap onto the face? (I thought vaguely committing 5.9+) Oct 31, 2007
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.7
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.7
Great Route! I don't really feel like this route is 5.8 when compared to Gobble Up or Ragger Bagger. Jun 12, 2006
Buff Johnson
  5.7
Buff Johnson  
  5.7
The start dihedral has perfect fingers to hands, then to fingers, then to hands; great to practice hand & foot motion.

Also, another variant is to fly straight up out of the dihedral to finish on a slab - very committing, the holds are there, the fall is clean, and the slab angle backs off once you grab the proper holds. In this variant, a smaller alien can be used in the finish of the dihedral as you would not need to worry about rope drag as you would on the short left traverse.

Webbing and/or long slings to use (girth hitched) with two opposed boulder constrictions for the belay (both constrictions were solid). Big fat ass ledge to kick back on and take a drink, it does get hot on that rock.

Also, available for your climbing pleasure is a walk-off! Jan 20, 2006
Tim Judkins
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Tim Judkins   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Great climb. There are placements for smaller (0.5 to 1.0 Camalots) above the crux, but they're sorta hidden on the right of the 10' offwidth stuff. Don't puss out (and flee to Honky Tonk like I did) because of this apparent lack of pro. Pulling the crux was hard 5.7, especially if you're not confident with your fists. Jul 24, 2005
TBD
TBD  
5.7 may be a little soft compaired to other routes of similar grades in the S. Platte (Classic Dihedral on Bucksnort, Slimey Slit on Squat Rock). I really doubt it's 5.8 (Gobble Up is signifcantly more difficult). Great climb none the less. Perfect hands up to a balance traverse left on good feet and a fun pull to restablish into the crack above. Just good fun. Apr 25, 2005
Paul Sampson
  5.7
Paul Sampson  
  5.7
A great, easy, warm-up climb! Jul 28, 2004
Larry Shaw
  5.8
Larry Shaw  
  5.8
Good stuff...tape up. Jun 2, 2004
Dan Battin
  5.8-
Dan Battin  
  5.8-
One of the best cracks at this level. Great biginer lead, just make sure to protect the crux at the traverse into the second crack well. Nov 18, 2003
First crack climb I've done outside. Also the first time leading a crack climb. Excellent climb with a commiting move to get to the upper crack. It was fun (and tiring). But it's well worth it. Mar 5, 2002
R.T.C.P. - This route is a spectacular introduction to crack climbing. The gear is bomber and the line is very obvious. It is also a good idea to place a piece up high before the committing move left into the final crack. CLASSIC Jan 1, 2001