Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,101 total · 17/month
Shared By: James on Jan 21, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This route lies between Wide Chimney and Honky. I have three guidebooks for the area, and this route is not in any of them. So, I gave it a name (If this ever had a name I would be happy to change it). I first climbed this in the conditions shown in the second photo. I was completely soaked upon arriving at the top, hence the name. Start up the left side of a block (nice ledge for Honky). Scramble left to another ledge. The difficulties start here. Follow the curving cracks on the right to the top. I enjoyed the route due to the variety from thin cracks to offwidth and a little bit of stemming.

Location

The route is between Wide Chimney and Honky Jam on Turkey Perch (See photo, follow the rope). To get down, scramble through some boulders, then walk left for the easiest descent.

Protection

Standard rack plus I used #4 & #5 Camalots and a #5 Friend. The route protects well.

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Photos

Slightly wet conditions on November 30, 2008.
Slightly wet conditions on November 30, 2008.
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Wet Turkey, much nicer day, January 19, 2009.
Wet Turkey, much nicer day, January 19, 2009.
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3 Comments

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Matilda
  5.8
Matilda  
  5.8
This is an interesting route with some challenging problems since it changes from a hand crack to an off-width just when the rock face starts to bulge out. I don't know why this climb has been overlooked, once you hit the crack it's physical and sustained. It's worth a try. This route actually kicked my butt harder than Gobble Up. Jan 22, 2009
Jason Haas
G1 Climbing + Fitness
Jason Haas   G1 Climbing + Fitness
This route, as well as what's listed on this site as Wide Chimney are listed in Mark Rolofson's 1984 guidebook The Hard Stuff! A Climber's Guide to the Turkey Rock Area simply as Moderate Cracks. He lists both as 5.6, although I would say the chimney is no harder than 5.5 and the left offwidth (this route) is closer to 5.7-5.8-. For clarification purposes, I have always heard this route be called Turkey Perch Offwidth. Mar 19, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.7
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.7
This climbed surprisingly easier than it looked. Many features on both sides of the OW make this more a stemming climb than a crack climb. Easy 5.7 if you don't get too fixated on the crack. Mar 15, 2015