Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,911 total · 18/month
Shared By: Chris Fisher on Aug 10, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is an obscure route on the far left side of Turkey Perch. It is the crack system just left of Liquid Acrobat. The climb starts with an undercling about chest level. The crack is #3 Camalot to start with. The crack soon becomes a double crack, one that is hand-size and the other a bit smaller. The crux of the climb is in the beginning and finishes in the 5.6 range. A short route that is well worth 15 minutes of your time. It doesn't get a lot of use and has some loose rock near the top. The tree at the top offers a great belay in the shade on this sunny, south-facing climb.


Light rack to 3".
Michael Walker
Loveland, CO
Michael Walker   Loveland, CO
I believe this route is called "Bloody Englishman". Small semantics ;-p Not only is it a quality route, it is probably the only thing you'll get to climb on this crag as the routes of the Turkey Perch swarm with schools! A worthy climb but three stars? A little short for me. Oct 13, 2001
I would agree with Michael. This route has some nice moves, but it is too short to warrant three stars. I would suggest a rating of 5.7. This route and Liquid Acrobat can be TR'ed from the same anchor. Mar 13, 2005
Jon Cannon
Jon Cannon  
I'd say this is all of an .8, even by South Platte standards. It's certainly more difficult than Gobble Up, also rated an .8, but I agree that there's only about 20 feet of sustained hard climbing before it becomes a walk.

Oh, and Chris Wray took that action photo I submitted. Credit where it's due, and all that. Oct 18, 2005
Pat W  
I'd say the initial moves in the crack earn a 5.8, somehwhat strenuous. Reach high for the first jam with wide jams for feet. Those with smaller hands will find the start tough, stacked hands or hand and fist, hand size dependant. I could reach for a fist jam where my partner had to do a weird stack move (hard for an 8 move for her). Easy after the opening jams. Also, no need to undercling the start, just some stemming. "Spread you legs and trust the rubber." Haha. One star out of three. At least there shouldn't be a line. Jun 12, 2006
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
The first section getting into the double crack section is pretty tough for a 5.8. I found some small edges that were on the edge of the right side of the crack that helped alot when trying to lieback the right crack stepping into the double section before I could jam my whole foot in the crack. For sure one of the tougher 5.8s I have lead, even on TR my partner had some difficulties. I hung on gear once in the double crack section. I must go back an get it clean now. How tough is it to step out right into the other steeper less wide crack to the top? After the first 20-30 feet the route is pretty much over. Left-Handed Jew was much better (cleaner more sustained and less awfulwidth). May 28, 2007
Caleb Schwarz
Colorado Springs, CO
Caleb Schwarz   Colorado Springs, CO
The beginning is definitely an in-your-face style of climb. It's decently straightforward but strenuous. I followed the original, left crack system higher than I think the route goes and traversed out right on a huge, bucket flake. It made the traverse easier, but I don't recommend it, because the flake sounded very hollow.

Good route with some pretty sweet easy jamming about 2/3 of the way up.
Much shorter and in my opinion easier than Gobble Up. Gobble Up is more sustained at the 5.8 difficulty. Jul 5, 2017
The beginning five or six moves are 5.8+ish until you get established in both cracks. From there, maybe 5.6+/5/7- to the top. Pretty fun but short. Be careful of the legitimate totem pole of rocks to the climber's left near the top of the first crack where it widens. They are being held up by a few smaller rocks, but nothing is really keeping them from being pulled outwards from the wall. It would be horrific if they came off while someone was climbing. Dec 10, 2017