Directissima

A great three pitch on Chasm View Wall, NOT on the Diamond. A good training route for the more committing lines of the Diamond, takes significantly less time to approach and descend (depending on descent taken). Approach Mills Glacier but instead of climbing the North Chimney to Broadway continue North on the glacier. Scramble up easy grassy ledges to beneath the middle of Chasm View Wall. Continue up and right to the bottom of an obvious grassy ledge beneath the right facing dihedral.

P1: (5.8) Climb the inside of left-leaning, right-facing dihedral system to a ramp beneath a small roof. There is an old bolt and a nice horn here. Belay on a flake below a small slot/roof above.

P2: (5.9) Climb straight up past the right end of the roof. Climb up through the slot and lieback and jam to another stance before another flake. Belay at a bolt beneath a flake roof.

P3: (5.9+) Climb over the overhanging flake and continue up into a chimney protected by a couple of bolts. The chimney narrows into a squeeze and then a wide crack. Pull around a flake and continue up featured terrain to a small ledge. The chimney/squeeze/OW is the strenuous crux of the route. This pitch makes a good argument for not wearing packs on this route. There are at least two old fixed cams on this pitch along with a couple of old protection bolts. Climb easier terrain past flakes to a belay ledge below the final pitch.

P4: (5.10b) Climb up the widish crack to the crux roof, and make a committing move to a good jam (crux). Keep the grin on your face as you ascend the clean crack through featured rock to the top of the wall. This pitch isn't THAT wide. A single span of Camalots to #4 seemed adequate, doubles would be more than adequate. It's an abrupt feeling as you top out onto the horizontal terrain at the edge of the Boulderfield. 

Three descent options: 1) Boulderfield trail, 2) Chasm View and Broadway/North Chimney Raps or 3) Camel slide (look to the East for a large block that resembles a kneeling camel on the ridge between Chasm View proper and Mt. Lady Washington. Go south towards the Camel and work down and east across the slopes of Mt. Lady Washington to grassy ledges at the head of a scree gully. Follow the gully SW into the Chasm Lake cirque).

Standard rack up to a #4 Camalot.

If you brought your gear up, the easiest way out is to hike down towards the Boulderfield, intersect the trail, and hike out. Alternatively, return to Chasm Lake Cirque via The Camel Gully and hike out. We hiked out via the Boulderfield.