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Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 42
votes
Routes in Middle Bell Tower
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Arm and Hammer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butcher Knife T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cymbals Of The Sun T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Demon's Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 R |
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Dire Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Easy Way Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gendarme, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Gin and Tonic T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lowe Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Once in a Blood Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Regge Pole T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Tonic Immobility T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Winged Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Steve Ellsworth, Mark McQuarrie 1964 |
| Page Views: | 10,206 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on May 14, 2004 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.
Details
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
This route follows a really striking line up the Middle Bell Tower, but has really bad rock up high. Easily pick this route out by looking for the obvious continuous dihedral which goes through 2 huge roofs. Good rock quality is found for the first 2 pitches, but it gets much worse after passing the Arm and Hammer exit.
P1) Incredible roof traverse pitch. This pitch is 3-star quality, and has good rock. Easily climb up to the monster roof, then traverse the roof right for 40 feet of fun climbing. A set of chain anchors ends this pitch immediately after finishing the roof, or link with the second pitch. (5.7)
P2) Squeeze. Good rock, but this is an unpleasant squeeze chimney. Grunt up this passing 3 old bolts on the right face. The crack can be somewhat protected with a #4 camalot. Of the 3 bolts, the first looks like a nail with a wingnut attached, the second has a hanger, and the 3rd is bashed into the rock (and completely unusable). The first can be used if slung with a small stopper. This pitch ends at a nice ledge with a 3 bolt anchor, or can be combined with pitch 1. (5.7)
P3) Climb up the variable sized dihedral through deteriorating rock for 100 feet to another ledge with a 2 bolt, 1 piton anchor. (5.7)
P4) Climb up a rotten crack, which quickly reaches a squeeze chimney. Another bad bolt on the left face, then grunt upwards. Clip another odd bolt on the right face, then traverse slightly left to a sealed up crack (possibly protectable at the start by very small gear). Continue up this unprotectable bad rock to a 2 bolt anchor. (5.6)
P5, P6) Rock gets even worse. I chose to rap the route from here. If not, this next pitch goes up a steep unprotectable bush and dirt filled choss groove to the second big roof. The roof looks easy, but unpleasant to reach. Another pitch apparently climbs through a rotten corner to the top.
Descent) It is possible to rap to the ground from the top of P4 using only one 60m rope.
P1) Incredible roof traverse pitch. This pitch is 3-star quality, and has good rock. Easily climb up to the monster roof, then traverse the roof right for 40 feet of fun climbing. A set of chain anchors ends this pitch immediately after finishing the roof, or link with the second pitch. (5.7)
P2) Squeeze. Good rock, but this is an unpleasant squeeze chimney. Grunt up this passing 3 old bolts on the right face. The crack can be somewhat protected with a #4 camalot. Of the 3 bolts, the first looks like a nail with a wingnut attached, the second has a hanger, and the 3rd is bashed into the rock (and completely unusable). The first can be used if slung with a small stopper. This pitch ends at a nice ledge with a 3 bolt anchor, or can be combined with pitch 1. (5.7)
P3) Climb up the variable sized dihedral through deteriorating rock for 100 feet to another ledge with a 2 bolt, 1 piton anchor. (5.7)
P4) Climb up a rotten crack, which quickly reaches a squeeze chimney. Another bad bolt on the left face, then grunt upwards. Clip another odd bolt on the right face, then traverse slightly left to a sealed up crack (possibly protectable at the start by very small gear). Continue up this unprotectable bad rock to a 2 bolt anchor. (5.6)
P5, P6) Rock gets even worse. I chose to rap the route from here. If not, this next pitch goes up a steep unprotectable bush and dirt filled choss groove to the second big roof. The roof looks easy, but unpleasant to reach. Another pitch apparently climbs through a rotten corner to the top.
Descent) It is possible to rap to the ground from the top of P4 using only one 60m rope.
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