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Routes in Middle Bell Tower
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Arm and Hammer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butcher Knife T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cymbals Of The Sun T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Demon's Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 R |
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Dire Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Easy Way Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gendarme, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Gin and Tonic T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lowe Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Once in a Blood Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Regge Pole T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Tonic Immobility T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Winged Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | FA: George Lowe and Ted Wilson. FFA: Mark Evans, 2017 |
| Page Views: | 925 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Gavin on Nov 27, 2017 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.
Details
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
An old climb that's likely the manufacturing facility for choss in the Wasatch. Tip toeing around loose blocks, and a cool head may very well be more valuable than specialized cams on this route.
But really why are you drawn to this route? Likely you're gaping at the massive roof of pitch 2 aren't you? Maybe it's that splitter wide crack of pitch 3. Or maybe you thought that approach pitch would be cake. Either way you've been sucked in to the vortex of The Gendarme.
Pitch 1) Climb a myriad of cracks up and left at the base of the SW corner of Middle Bell. Aiming for a ledge system slightly left of the prominent roof. Belay off cams and a bush. 5.9R
Pitch 2) The real meal deal. Climb up and right off the belay placing a few cams before you find a bolt protecting a tricky slab traverse to gain the base of the crack leading to the roof. Once to the roof there's only way thing to do. You'll be CUTTING LOOSE at the lip on your onsight attempt damn near guaranteed. This pitch actually has decent rock, and sports the steepest perfect hand crack I've ever come across in the Wasatch. Belay at 2 bolts. 5.11
Pitch 3) Pull through a bush or two to gain the "bushless" section of the wide crack. Heel-toe, arm bar, chicken wing, and thrutch your way up this gloriously long wide crack pushing your lone #6 along for the journey. Belay from a bush on top of the gendarme itself. 5.8
Rappel from the top belay bush to a stainless steel Smoot anchor on his new 5.11 face climb to the right of "Easy Way Up". 2 double rope raps will get you down.
Unsure of if this has been freed in the past. Mark Evans freed the crux onsight 11/26/2017.
But really why are you drawn to this route? Likely you're gaping at the massive roof of pitch 2 aren't you? Maybe it's that splitter wide crack of pitch 3. Or maybe you thought that approach pitch would be cake. Either way you've been sucked in to the vortex of The Gendarme.
Pitch 1) Climb a myriad of cracks up and left at the base of the SW corner of Middle Bell. Aiming for a ledge system slightly left of the prominent roof. Belay off cams and a bush. 5.9R
Pitch 2) The real meal deal. Climb up and right off the belay placing a few cams before you find a bolt protecting a tricky slab traverse to gain the base of the crack leading to the roof. Once to the roof there's only way thing to do. You'll be CUTTING LOOSE at the lip on your onsight attempt damn near guaranteed. This pitch actually has decent rock, and sports the steepest perfect hand crack I've ever come across in the Wasatch. Belay at 2 bolts. 5.11
Pitch 3) Pull through a bush or two to gain the "bushless" section of the wide crack. Heel-toe, arm bar, chicken wing, and thrutch your way up this gloriously long wide crack pushing your lone #6 along for the journey. Belay from a bush on top of the gendarme itself. 5.8
Rappel from the top belay bush to a stainless steel Smoot anchor on his new 5.11 face climb to the right of "Easy Way Up". 2 double rope raps will get you down.
Unsure of if this has been freed in the past. Mark Evans freed the crux onsight 11/26/2017.
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