Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: George Lowe and Ted Wilson
Page Views: 149 total · 11/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Nov 27, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. Details


An old climb that's likely the manufacturing facility for choss in the Wasatch. Tip toeing around loose blocks, and a cool head may very well be more valuable than specialized cams on this route.

But really why are you drawn to this route? Likely you're gaping at the massive roof of pitch 2 aren't you? Maybe it's that splitter wide crack of pitch 3. Or maybe you thought that approach pitch would be cake. Either way you've been sucked in to the vortex of The Gendarme.

Pitch 1) Climb a myriad of cracks up and left at the base of the SW corner of Middle Bell. Aiming for a ledge system slightly left of the prominent roof. Belay off cams and a bush. 5.9R

Pitch 2) The real meal deal. Climb up and right off the belay placing a few cams before you find a bolt protecting a tricky slab traverse to gain the base of the crack leading to the roof. Once to the roof there's only way thing to do. You'll be CUTTING LOOSE at the lip on your onsight attempt damn near guaranteed. This pitch actually has decent rock, and sports the steepest perfect hand crack I've ever come across in the Wasatch. Belay at 2 bolts. 5.11

Pitch 3) Pull through a bush or two to gain the "bushless" section of the wide crack. Heel-toe, arm bar, chicken wing, and thrutch your way up this gloriously long wide crack pushing your lone #6 along for the journey. Belay from a bush on top of the gendarme itself. 5.8

Rappel from the top belay bush to a stainless steel Smoot anchor on his new 5.11 face climb to the right of "Easy Way Up". 2 double rope raps will get you down.

Unsure of if this has been freed in the past. Mark Evans freed the crux onsight 11/26/2017.


Furthest left route on Middle Bell. Look for the west facing crack system on the gendarme that splits the breaking wave shaped roof.


Singles to #6. Doubles fingers through hands. Medium nuts. 2 ropes.


Thanks for posting up, I wrote about this in a short essay "For whom the Bells Toll" in the Granite Guide. It sounds like we climbed and belayed more directly under the roof. To my knowledge, this is the first free ascent...great job! Dec 3, 2017
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Brian we saw a few pin scars out to the right of our line on what we call pitch 1, and under the roof itself. Climbing further right on pitch 1 looks like a viable option connecting flared crack systems, and certainly could be a more solid experience than my line. However it appeared to requiring some bolts and/or pins which we lacked on the day of our ascent. Thanks for the history in the Granite Guide! Dec 4, 2017