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Demon's Dance
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A0 R
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Middle Bell Tower
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Arm and Hammer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butcher Knife T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cymbals Of The Sun T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Demon's Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 R |
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Dire Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Easy Way Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gendarme, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Gin and Tonic T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lowe Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Once in a Blood Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Regge Pole T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Tonic Immobility T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Winged Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 375 ft (114 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | B. Smoot, L. Ellison, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 533 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | bsmoot on Nov 29, 2021 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane |
Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon.
Details
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
This route ascends the seldom explored west side of clean slab between the Regge Pole and the McQuarrie Route.
P1: Climb the first 40' of the McQuarrie Route to the large featured slab on the left (below a big roof). Traverse left across the slab to where the roof ends, move farther left to a gear belay at a wide crack beneath the big slab above. 5.6. This belay can also be approached from directly below via 5.5 climbing.
P2: Face climb up the poorly protected face (5.7) passing a piton to a flake at the base of a shallow left facing corner, just below a bolt. Aid climb past a short bolt ladder (4 or 5 old bolts) to a tiny green corner. Free climbing up this leads to a semi hanging belay, 5.11... great pitch.
P3: Edge up to thin cracks and flakes to a bolt. Traverse right and up (5.10) to easier cracks, these lead to the belay atop Pedestal Ledge on Arm and Hammer.
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