5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A0 R
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 375 ft (114 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||B. Smoot, L. Ellison, 1990|
|Page Views:||322 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||bsmoot on Nov 29, 2021|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
This route ascends the seldom explored west side of clean slab between the Regge Pole and the McQuarrie Route.
P1: Climb the first 40' of the McQuarrie Route to the large featured slab on the left (below a big roof). Traverse left across the slab to where the roof ends, move farther left to a gear belay at a wide crack beneath the big slab above. 5.6. This belay can also be approached from directly below via 5.5 climbing.
P2: Face climb up the poorly protected face (5.7) passing a piton to a flake at the base of a shallow left facing corner, just below a bolt. Aid climb past a short bolt ladder (4 or 5 old bolts) to a tiny green corner. Free climbing up this leads to a semi hanging belay, 5.11... great pitch.
P3: Edge up to thin cracks and flakes to a bolt. Traverse right and up (5.10) to easier cracks, these lead to the belay atop Pedestal Ledge on Arm and Hammer.