Easy Way Up

This is a seldom done Lowe route that is quite bold, due to its sparse protection and route finding. If you want adventure, this is it!  When climbed, George Lowe was 23 years old and Jeff was only 17!  It's hard to imagine these 2 young climbers wandering up this unknown territory with out cams. I'm guessing that the reason the Lowes gave this route it's name was because the year before, George climbed the Regge Pole.

We approached this climb via the first 2 pitches of Once in a Blood Moon, which offered better quality climbing.

Pitch 3:  Traverse left and down to the corner. Climb a wide crack diagonaling left out of the corner. Follow this crack/groove for about 25' to where you can traverse back right on good patina for about 30' to another wide crack on the right. Higher up you can belay at a bush. (5.9+ R). It's also possible to traverse right, just above the bushes to the more comfortable ledge on Once in a Blood Moon.

Pitch 4:  Above the bush, move out of the corner climbing the small flake above. Excellent climbing on more patina leads to a possible belay by a rock spike or better, continue up and right along some small ledges to a belay at large bushes. (5.8 R) See Photo.

Pitch 5: Traverse left into a major chimney. Follow this strenuous slot to a sloping ledge at it's top (5.9).

Pitch 6:  Climb the right leaning corner above on very, very rotten rock past a chockstone (tread lightly here) and another bulge to the top. (5.9 R).

Some guidebooks have different variations from where we went....pick you line!

Start is the same as the Wilson Ream route or Once in a Blood Moon. It branches off following the first major right facing corner about 35' up the second pitch of the Wilson Ream Route.

1 -2 sets of cams to a #4 camalot. One 4.5 camalot is also useful. A few nuts and many shoulder length runners.