Elevation: 7,328 ft
GPS: 40.563, -111.769 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,762 total · 143/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 15, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. Details

Description

The Middle Bell Tower can easily be picked out by a big right facing corner which pulls through two huge roofs (the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route). To the left of this is a shield of high quality granite which holds Arm and Hammer, a Bell Tower classic. The Middle Bell Tower is the 3rd Bell tower encountered, after the Far West and the West Bell.

Getting There

Start at the trailhead for Bell's Canyon off of Wasatch Blvd. Follow this uphill, steeply at times, for 2 or 3 miles until adjacent with the Middle Bell Tower. This takes approximately 75 to 90 minutes to reach, depending on how fast you hike. Look for a faint trail (a ways above the turnoff for the waterfall) which heads easily over to the base of Middle Bell Tower. This faint trail avoids any bushwhacking, but has a lot of scrambling over giant boulders to cross the creek. From the trail, it is about 10 minutes to the base of the rock. Total approach time ~ one hour and 30-45 minutes.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Bell Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Lowe Variation
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
 6
Winged Warrior
Trad, Aid 8 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 165
Arm and Hammer
Trad 6 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Butcher Knife
Trad 4 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Cymbals Of The Sun
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
Lowe Variation
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Winged Warrior
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1 Trad, Aid 8 pitches
Arm and Hammer
 165
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 6 pitches
Butcher Knife
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 4 pitches
Cymbals Of The Sun
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Middle Bell Tower »

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Photos

bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Middle Bell Tower can indeed be rapped with a 70m rope. We did not go to the true summit of the ridge/formation, but found a stubby mahogany tree in a small notch above crazy choss runnels to the west that seemed to be the logical finish of Arm and Hammer and Butcher Knife. This small mahogany could use a knife and much long fresh cord to improve its function and clean it up (as of 5/10/16) (the ample hardware/quicklinks can be re-used).

Here's the single 70 m rope rappel beta beginning at the this top mahogeny:

1: rap to Butcher Knife's shiny new ASCA bolts and rings in a ramp/corner above the big roofs

2: rap down and right again into Butcher Knifes shiny new ASCA bolts and rings in the left facing ramp corner

3: rap down and left to the pedestal ledge bolted anchor

4: rap down right just barely making it to the now bolted 1st pitch "Chockstone Belay" for Cymbals

5: rap to the starting gully and down scramble a bit May 11, 2016
Garrett Harmsen
Salt Lake City, UT
Garrett Harmsen   Salt Lake City, UT
would highly recommend the rappel over the walk off unless you enjoy incredibly heinous bushwhacking down a steep and loose slope. The "walk off" also includes 2 manky rappels, so it doesn't avoid getting the rope out either. It's only redeeming quality is that you get to walk the ridge in between Bells and Lcc. Unless you're a masochist, just rap the wall. Oct 11, 2016
Cass Bindrup
Salt Lake City
Cass Bindrup   Salt Lake City
I set a new FKT for the Middle Bell Tower on 10 July 2018 via the E-M route. I parked at the Bells Canyon Granite trailhead on little cottonwood road. Time was tracked car to car. My splits were measured as follows.

Trailhead to waterfall: 32 min
Waterfall to base of route: 28 min
Base to Summit: 1 hr 36 min
Descent back to the waterfall: 32 min
Waterfall to car: 28 min

Total time elapsed: 3 hrs 36 min

I'd like to think this cardio-intensive line could be challenged via the Zion curtain by a fast team of two who have their systems dialed. Go for it! Jul 11, 2018