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Routes in Middle Bell Tower

Arm and Hammer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Butcher Knife T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cymbals Of The Sun T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dire Direct T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gendarme, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Gin and Tonic T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lowe Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regge Pole T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Winged Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Mark Evans, Shingo Ohkawa, Greg Gavin
Page Views: 327 total, 25/month
Shared By: Greg Gavin on Nov 15, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. Details

History and Beta

Mark eye'd this one day while climbing Tonic Immobility with Shingo. It was the Jr Sales Associate behind the counter, and I who started the line a year or so later getting it into shape. Then Mark and I finished the upper anchor while exploring the possibilities of the future slab on the unfinished pitch. I think Mark onsighted the crux pitch after Shingo, and I had first climbed it using some aid.

G&T climbs great slabs and cracks roughly 100yds right of Arm & Hammer. The climbs rears up in angle the higher you climb, and shares one of the best belay ledges in the Wasatch with the so called "Calypso Ledge". So be sure to bring a few beers up there to revel in your position. The 3rd pitch is amazing. I don't think I've climbed anything like it anywhere.

Pitch 1) Climb a corner protecting with a small nut via stemming, and fingers. Pass a bolt on amazing green patina edges accessing the bottom of the large slab. Smear your way up this clipping a couple bolts along the way. Trend right after the water streak bolt to belay at a fixed bong + bolt or trend left to link with pitch 2.(35m)(5.9 bolts + gear to #2)

Pitch 2) Continue friction climbing over a few protectable overlaps aiming for a scoop with a bolt. Exit this scoop and find another bolt at face level. Perform a subtle friction crux trending left on cracks. You can go left or right at the top of the pitch to access Calypso Ledge, but I always climbed right (easier and better). Belay on Calypso using hand sized gear, and a fixed pin. (30m)(5.9 bolts + gear to #2)

Linking pitch 1 and 2 is pretty easy to do in one 70m pitch. These pitches are really good, and by far the best way to reach Calypso Ledge.

Pitch 3) Down climb west off Calypso Ledge a few feet, and reach for a huge chickenhead. You can protect the mantle here with a yellow tcu or equivalent, but I think it's best to not place any gear (it's not to bad). Now you're below the business! Place a high piece, and proceed up the difficult finger to hands crack. Atop the biz nasty part of the crack you'll look left, and sling a chickenhead roughly the size of a Old E bottle. Perform the badass move out onto the face, and clip bolts up to the anchor on some of the coolest 5.10 moves on bullet stone. Hard crack to cryptic face climbing makes this thing a stand out. Belay from one ring bolt, and one bolt with 2 quicklinks. Use slings wisely on this pitch or suffer the consequences! (20m)(5.11 - gear to #2 + bolts)

Pitch 4) Unfinished hard slab - But if you're keen for an adventure climb get on that slab, and see if it goes!

Where the heck is it?

The route is about 100yds right of Arm and Hammer. Approach as for A&H, but contour dead right from it's base. There's a subtle down hill portion that gets you a trail through large trees. You're aiming for the large corner system of Tonic Immobility. There is a nice boulder to rack from at base.

Stuff to bring and how to get off

Quickdraw's for bolts on all pitches + slings, and a standard rack to #3.

Descend the crux pitch with a shorter 15-20m rap. You can rap with 1 70m cord down "Tonic Immobility"(the large corner to the right) via the huge pine tree with slings on the eastern edge of the Calypso Ledge. The 2 raps down from Calypso are 35m so be sure to knot the ends of your rope.

Photos

Nicely done Gents! Nov 17, 2016