Once in a Blood Moon
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 2.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Brian & Jonathan Smoot, Kevin Lockwood, Les Ellison. 2015 |
Page Views: | 339 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | bsmoot on Jun 6, 2022 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.
Description
This adventurous route climbs the featured rib just left of the Regge Pole.
Pitch 1: Start about 15' right of the main chimney in a short offwidth crack. Climb this and then higher to some patina features. Face climbing and flakes lead to a belay on top of a chockstone. 5.8+, 150' I recently found out that this was the line taken by the 1964 Wilson Ream party.
Pitch 2: Move up and right onto excellent orange patina. Climb past 4 bolts (5.8) to a narrow belay ledge, 90'
Pitch 3: Traverse straight right 30' (It will help the follower to skip the bolt above you) to a bolt at a big roof (don't pass up any gear placements here!). Pull the exciting roof and climb the face/patina for 60' to a face crack, (5.11). Easier climbing up the crack leads past some loose blocks to a cramped but secure belay stance. 165'
Pitch 4: Face climb above past 2 bolts. Lasso a small horn and move up to a small tree. Move left and up to a bolt. Higher is a ledge at the base of a left facing corner, 5.10. Easier climbing up the nice corner crack leads to small ledges and a bolt belay, 170' From here the route joins Sunstroke. Either rap here using 2 ropes or continue up Sunstroke, 5.9 unprotected, gritty rock, to the top.
2 Comments