All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Bells Canyon > Middle Bell Tower

Once in a Blood Moon

Name: Once in a Blood Moon
Rating: 2.7

5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13

Early Access

A topo that moves with you

Zoom into every pitch before you rack up.

Try Interactive Topos

Routes in Middle Bell Tower

L › R R › L A › Z

	Arm and Hammer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Butcher Knife T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Cymbals Of The Sun T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Demon's Dance T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 R
	Dire Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Easy Way Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Gendarme, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Gin and Tonic T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Lowe Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Once in a Blood Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
	Regge Pole T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Tonic Immobility T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Winged Warrior T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches
GPS:	40.56225, -111.76512
FA:	Brian & Jonathan Smoot, Kevin Lockwood, Les Ellison. 2015
Page Views:	534 total · 10/month
Shared By:	bsmoot on Jun 6, 2022
Admins:	Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Private Property now at the entrance to Bells Canyon. Details

A well known and marked trailhead has been established starting from Wasatch Blvd. The trail adds some time to the approach, but is fenced off from passing through any private property. Stick to the trail.

Description

This adventurous route climbs the featured rib just left of the Regge Pole.

Pitch 1: Start about 15' right of the main chimney in a short offwidth crack. Climb this and then higher to some patina features. Face climbing and flakes lead to a belay on top of a chockstone. 5.8+, 150' I recently found out that this was the line taken by the 1964 Wilson Ream party.

Pitch 2: Move up and right onto excellent orange patina. Climb past 4 bolts (5.8) to a narrow belay ledge, 90'

Pitch 3: Traverse straight right 30' (It will help the follower to skip the bolt above you) to a bolt at a big roof (don't pass up any gear placements here!). Pull the exciting roof and climb the face/patina for 60' to a face crack, (5.11). Easier climbing up the crack leads past some loose blocks to a cramped but secure belay stance. 165'

Pitch 4: Face climb above past 2 bolts. Lasso a small horn and move up to a small tree. Move left and up to a bolt. Higher is a ledge at the base of a left facing corner, 5.10. Easier climbing up the nice corner crack leads to small ledges and a bolt belay, 170' From here the route joins Sunstroke. Either rap here using 2 ropes or continue up Sunstroke, 5.9 unprotected, gritty rock, to the top.