Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 2,687 total · 14/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

37 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details


Climb the start of Local Yokel (5.8), and instead of heading up onto the chosspile, head up and right into a large (10 -12 feet) feature on nearly vertical rock. Traverse the feature using anything you can find to hold onto, and then top out to the top anchors.

The feature is awesome, and requires quite a bit of fancy footwork.


6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with Confusion Tactics (5.12a).


Rocklin, Ca
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
I've always gone straight up the corner past the right side of the roof past a one or two more bolts to the same anchor as the Local Yokel. Oct 19, 2012
Yep, after the roof you can go to either anchor: Confusion or Local. I think the way rope runs is a little better from Confusion's anchor, but certainly they both work! Dec 17, 2012
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
i also climbed this weekend, whipped on that bolt in question a few times and held just fine, but i agree it could use a little tightening. Mar 18, 2013
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
Still spinners under the roof. Could probably benefit from some lock nuts. Stout crux but fun. Wish it had mussy's instead of rap rings cause cleaning it is kinda a bitch if you go to the confusion anchor. Mar 8, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Not one I'd repeat often, but the onsight excitement was well worth the price of admission. Obligatory, post crux howls were emitted. Jan 14, 2015
Chasing Choss
Chasing Choss   California
first bolt below roof is still spinning Jun 14, 2016
I didn't use a standard. Most are 3/8" or 1/2" rawls. Others are the 10 or 12 mm Fixe. I would suggest a crescent wrench and you are covered for all scenarios.

A couple of things to consider, if the rock is wet or event wet in surrounding areas, check under the roof, it might be worth tightening the nut down snug but not tight / torqued as the presence of wet rock / water can increase the chance of over torquing. In general go to snug, then just a smidgen turn past. You do not need to crank down and keep torquing. The sleeves an/or wedges just need to be tight and in contact with the rock to function appropriately. I have seen people over torque bolts which can cause them to spin and/or increase chance of the head (on Rawls / Power type bolts) to shear.

Ultimately, if you are are not comfortable and confident in your ability to do it right, just tighten it to snug and leave it at that. Mar 2, 2017
Rael Dornfest
Portland, OR
Rael Dornfest   Portland, OR
A climber next to us pulled off a large chunk of rock in the nook just above the third bolt under the main feature, resulting in some rock fall and potentially increasing the difficulty of this route. Jan 24, 2018