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Routes in Wreckage Wall

Anonymous Coward S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Bitch Slap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Confusion Tactics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Destructomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Handy Capable S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Howler Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger Pains S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Local Yokel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Obliteration Divine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tail Gate Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ticks Dig Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads Hollow S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triathlon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wingman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 2,616 total · 14/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Climb the start of Local Yokel (5.8), and instead of heading up onto the chosspile, head up and right into a large (10 -12 feet) feature on nearly vertical rock. Traverse the feature using anything you can find to hold onto, and then top out to the top anchors.

The feature is awesome, and requires quite a bit of fancy footwork.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with Confusion Tactics (5.12a).

Photos

mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.11a
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.11a
I've always gone straight up the corner past the right side of the roof past a one or two more bolts to the same anchor as the Local Yokel. Oct 19, 2012
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Yep, after the roof you can go to either anchor: Confusion or Local. I think the way rope runs is a little better from Confusion's anchor, but certainly they both work! Dec 17, 2012
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
  5.11a
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
  5.11a
i also climbed this weekend, whipped on that bolt in question a few times and held just fine, but i agree it could use a little tightening. Mar 18, 2013
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.10d
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.10d
Still spinners under the roof. Could probably benefit from some lock nuts. Stout crux but fun. Wish it had mussy's instead of rap rings cause cleaning it is kinda a bitch if you go to the confusion anchor. Mar 8, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Not one I'd repeat often, but the onsight excitement was well worth the price of admission. Obligatory, post crux howls were emitted. Jan 14, 2015
Chasing Choss
California
  5.11a
Chasing Choss   California
  5.11a
first bolt below roof is still spinning Jun 14, 2016
Rough
 
Rough  
 
I didn't use a standard. Most are 3/8" or 1/2" rawls. Others are the 10 or 12 mm Fixe. I would suggest a crescent wrench and you are covered for all scenarios.

A couple of things to consider, if the rock is wet or event wet in surrounding areas, check under the roof, it might be worth tightening the nut down snug but not tight / torqued as the presence of wet rock / water can increase the chance of over torquing. In general go to snug, then just a smidgen turn past. You do not need to crank down and keep torquing. The sleeves an/or wedges just need to be tight and in contact with the rock to function appropriately. I have seen people over torque bolts which can cause them to spin and/or increase chance of the head (on Rawls / Power type bolts) to shear.

Ultimately, if you are are not comfortable and confident in your ability to do it right, just tighten it to snug and leave it at that. Mar 2, 2017
A climber next to us pulled off a large chunk of rock in the nook just above the third bolt under the main feature, resulting in some rock fall and potentially increasing the difficulty of this route. Jan 24, 2018

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