All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Auburn & Grass… > Auburn SRA > Cave Valley (ak… > Wreckage Wall

Confusion Tactics

Name: Confusion Tactics
Rating: 2.4

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Wreckage Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anonymous Coward S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bionic Bitch Slap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Confusion Tactics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Destructomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Handy Capable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Howler Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Hunger Pains S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Local Yokel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Obliteration Divine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Tail Gate Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Ticks Dig Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Toads Hollow S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Triathlon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Wingman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

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Type:	Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Aaron Rough
Page Views:	2,331 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Rough on Aug 18, 2012
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Lurker -, Kyle Bishop, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.

Description

Start below the left facing corner / left border of the large overhang. Up an easy slab to a shallow corner that becomes more prominent and more overhung the higher you go. The crux guards a nice rail and a no hands rest at the apex of the overhang. From there, an easy romp up to the anchors.