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> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Auburn & Grass…
> Auburn SRA
> Cave Valley (ak…
> Wreckage Wall
Confusion Tactics
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 23
votes
Routes in Wreckage Wall
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Anonymous Coward S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bionic Bitch Slap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Confusion Tactics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Destructomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Handy Capable S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Howler Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hunger Pains S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Local Yokel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Obliteration Divine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tail Gate Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ticks Dig Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Toads Hollow S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Triathlon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Wingman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft |
| FA: | Aaron Rough |
| Page Views: | 1,973 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Rough on Aug 18, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Partial closure, spring and summer 2019
Details
CRAGS shares this info: Beginning March 15th, 2019 the upper section of the Cave Valley Climbing Area will be closed to entry until approximately mid-summer due to sensitive species in the area.
For closure info --- > Auburn State Recreation Posted Closureparks.ca.gov/?page_id=502
The closure area includes technical climbing routes known as Wreckage Wall, Twin Towers and other unnamed routes in the upper canyon. Technical climbing remains open in the lower end of the valley including Memorial Wall, Surf Tower, The Patio, Scale Wall and Horseshoe Canyon.
During this closure drone use is prohibited within 1/2 mile of the Cave Valley area.
For closure info --- > Auburn State Recreation Posted Closureparks.ca.gov/?page_id=502
The closure area includes technical climbing routes known as Wreckage Wall, Twin Towers and other unnamed routes in the upper canyon. Technical climbing remains open in the lower end of the valley including Memorial Wall, Surf Tower, The Patio, Scale Wall and Horseshoe Canyon.
During this closure drone use is prohibited within 1/2 mile of the Cave Valley area.
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid
Details
Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.
Description
Start below the left facing corner / left border of the large overhang. Up an easy slab to a shallow corner that becomes more prominent and more overhung the higher you go. The crux guards a nice rail and a no hands rest at the apex of the overhang. From there, an easy romp up to the anchors.
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