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Routes in Wreckage Wall

Anonymous Coward S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Bitch Slap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Confusion Tactics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Destructomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Handy Capable S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Howler Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger Pains S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Local Yokel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Obliteration Divine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tail Gate Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ticks Dig Me S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toads Hollow S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triathlon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wingman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,703 total · 23/month
Shared By: Rough on Aug 18, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

Start below the left facing corner / left border of the large overhang. Up an easy slab to a shallow corner that becomes more prominent and more overhung the higher you go. The crux guards a nice rail and a no hands rest at the apex of the overhang. From there, an easy romp up to the anchors.

Location

Left side of the main overhang on the Wreckage Wall. This is the route just right of Howler Monkey.

Protection

7 bolts

Photos

Vlad S
  5.12a
Vlad S  
  5.12a
Generally ok route, except for the bolt after the crux being about 4 feet too far left. Makes it impossible to not have your feet behind the rope and increases the likelyhood of flipping over in case you pull some megachoss at the top and take the plunge. Also watch out for the choss-hedral before the crux. Relatively big chunk broke out when my partner touched it with her foot. Helmets are mandatory! Feb 23, 2015
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Everyone cries about that bolt placement but it's in the only spot that had good rock and isn't hollow. Feb 23, 2015

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