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> Wreckage Wall
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5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Sport, 30 ft (9 m) |
FA: | Aaron Rough |
Page Views: | 2,746 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2003 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Most of Auburn SRA is open from 7 am to sunset. Leave early enough to be off the trails before dusk. Most parking requires self registration fees in cash envelopes (or annual state park passes), and is enthusiastically enforced. Check the Auburn State Recreation Area website at parks.ca.gov/?page_id=502 for current information. Note that the park's policy is that technical roped climbing is only permitted in the Cave Valley/Quarry area - outside the fenced private quarry at the back. Unroped climbing - aka bouldering or DWS - is allowed everywhere with a safe landing.
Description
This route heads up the right side of the large rocky outcropping in the middle of the Wreckage Wall.
Climb up the slab to where it meets the outcropping, where liebacks await using feet on the slab. Continue up and left onto the top of the outcropping, where 2 bolts of very easy climbing bring you to the top anchors.
The route that branches off this route to the right is called Howler Monkey (5.10d), heads off the slab to a large roof-like feature.
Climb up the slab to where it meets the outcropping, where liebacks await using feet on the slab. Continue up and left onto the top of the outcropping, where 2 bolts of very easy climbing bring you to the top anchors.
The route that branches off this route to the right is called Howler Monkey (5.10d), heads off the slab to a large roof-like feature.
Protection
5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with Tail Gate Party (5.7). Bring a couple of slings for the bolts heading around the corner to reduce drag.
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