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Routes in Wreckage Wall

Anonymous Coward S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Bitch Slap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Confusion Tactics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Destructomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Handy Capable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Howler Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger Pains S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Local Yokel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Obliteration Divine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tail Gate Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ticks Dig Me S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Triathlon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wingman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,532 total, 9/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 7, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

This route heads up the right side of the large rocky outcropping in the middle of the Wreckage Wall.

Climb up the slab to where it meets the outcropping, where liebacks await using feet on the slab. Continue up and left onto the top of the outcropping, where 2 bolts of very easy climbing bring you to the top anchors.

The route that branches off this route to the right is called Howler Monkey (5.10d), heads off the slab to a large roof-like feature.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with Tail Gate Party (5.7). Bring a couple of slings for the bolts heading around the corner to reduce drag.
Colton L
Folsom, CA
  5.8 PG13
Colton L   Folsom, CA
  5.8 PG13
I did not want to give this an "avoid" rating, but some of the lower section (trending right of bolts one, two, and three) contain rock that is exfoliating. These textbook-sized jugs lend to the 5.8 rating and will eventually break off under full body weight. Wear a helmet.

For the new 5.8 leader, be aware that most falls will contact a ledge or send you tumbling down blocky, low-angle stuff. Mar 30, 2017
Max Rausch
Monterey, California
 
Max Rausch   Monterey, California
 
Led this in my evolv cruisers as a warm up. EXTREME CHOSS. Multiple flakes by the second and third bolt are ready to go. Avoid this and climb something else. Jan 30, 2017
Joshua Wise
Mountain View, CA
  5.7
Joshua Wise   Mountain View, CA
  5.7
Super duper chossy when I did it today. Be very careful of loose rock. (I got smacked by a bunch of rockfall from my climber.) Feb 16, 2016
jg fox
Long Beach, CA
 
jg fox   Long Beach, CA
 
The flakes near the second bolt seemed loose, one of them looks to be a pretty big chunk and could blow if a climber puts too much force on it. Nov 22, 2015
Boriss
Sacramento
Boriss   Sacramento
I lead the route today and its probably one of the funnest 5.8 climbs in the area. I cleaned it a bit too along with Tailgate Party to the left. Apr 5, 2014
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.8
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.8
Route is clean. Definitely better than tailgate party. Probably a better first lead due to the choss on tailgate. Mar 8, 2014
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
me and my bud have been doing alot already, even though it hasnt been opened yet but so far we have only lightly cleaned a few in horseshoe canyon and added quick links for lowering on a couple of the routes. a chunk about the size of my head is very loose on creepshow i marked with and big X so if you are climbing that be careful because for me it was a obvious hold. Sep 7, 2012
Rough
 
Rough  
 
That sucks to hear as this route used to be spotless. Oh well, nothing some elbow grease won't fix! I bolted it on lead as it was the 1st route established on the Wreckage Wall. In a clean state, it is a great route. I plan on doing route maintenance on all of my routes (most of them out there) once we get the rig open. Sep 7, 2012
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
 
this may be the dirt and plant covered route i have ever climbed, it literally could use a weed wacker to get rid of the thorny plants on it Sep 6, 2012