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Routes in Wreckage Wall

Anonymous Coward S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Bitch Slap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Confusion Tactics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Destructomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Handy Capable S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Howler Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger Pains S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Local Yokel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Obliteration Divine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tail Gate Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ticks Dig Me S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Toads Hollow S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triathlon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wingman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Chad Suchoski
Page Views: 1,453 total · 24/month
Shared By: Salamanizer suchoski on Mar 2, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details


Start up a series of blocky moves to a high first bolt (easy to get too and keeps you from decking) then it's slopers and pinches to a short crux undercling. Remember the undercling! Delicate footwork lead to a perplexing bulge with hidden moves out left then onto an exposed arete to a short headwall just before the anchors.


The furthest route left on the Wreckage wall. About 15 ft left of Mr Wipples Wild Ride up the blunt arete to the left of the big cave up high.


9 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.


nice to see this one finished. look forward to it. Mar 27, 2013
Steve Montesanto
Steve Montesanto  
As good as anything I've done at the quarry. We'll done! Nov 27, 2013
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
This route is pretty rad. The move around the bulge is cool! Just spicy enough for me. Dec 1, 2013
Julian Bobilev
Julian Bobilev  
The routefinding on this one is crazy, so many features and only a few of them are any good. Lots of sandiness everywhere too. Great exposure / views from top. Spacing of last few bolts is a little spicy. There was a nesting goose in the cave near the middle when I led it, which was pretty cool. Mar 16, 2014
Dan Austin
San Francisco, CA
Dan Austin   San Francisco, CA
Very fun route, and very hard to onsight for the grade IMO, for the reasons others have mentioned. Moves near the top are quite fun Aug 20, 2014
Vlad S
Vlad S  
Poorly positioned bolts, mud flowing down the whole wall covering most holds, nothing but choss on this route, and not a trace of chalk. Very unpleasant experience. Bring a helmet for the climber AND belayer or better yet get on the 10c a few routes to the right - it's a much better warm up. Feb 23, 2015
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  

Sounds a little like someone got spanked. It's different and requires a diverse skillset, and the bolts are right where you need them, but not where you don't. Aug 2, 2015
Dan S
grass valley
Dan S   grass valley
As others said the route finding is interesting, botls were decent & safe. I liked it, top was excelent. Not much chalk, some dirt & loose pieces-not bad though. Mar 29, 2017
Andrew Davies
San Francisco, CA
Andrew Davies   San Francisco, CA
Really quite dirty at the bottom of the route, but with patience you can find some great pinches that'll get you through, and the moves get much more fun higher up. Sep 25, 2017
  • FOUND* Gear surprise at anchor today. Describe and I will return asap.
Jan 28, 2018

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