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Routes in Wreckage Wall

Anonymous Coward S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bionic Bitch Slap S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Confusion Tactics S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Destructomatic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Handy Capable S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Howler Monkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hunger Pains S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Invisible Flying Gargoyles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Local Yokel S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Whipple's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Obliteration Divine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tail Gate Party S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ticks Dig Me S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Triathlon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wingman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jim Thornburg
Page Views: 1,701 total, 36/month
Shared By: jimi thornburg on Dec 13, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Invisible Flying Gargoyles

Start up the first three bolts of Handy Capable, but where that route veers right, continue straight up the slightly overhanging shallow dihedral via big moves on perfect rock. At the sixth bolt you can bail left (12b) or go straight up (12c - better!).

Photos

Hey John cool that you did it!

Sounds like you did the left way.

The straight up way goes straight up from the sixth bolt or even slightly right of the bolt. The left way involves a distinct jog left to a side pull and then a hard move to a jug fairly far left, if I remember correctly.

The straight up way is really cool and quite tricky. Worth a try if you run out of things to do there. Nov 8, 2015
John Leeman
Davis, California
 
John Leeman   Davis, California
 
Really enjoyed this route. I think I did the "bail left" version but I'm not sure. Is the vertical rail to the left of the 6th bolt off for the 12c version? Or is the jug up and left off? I never got more then an arms length left of the bolt line. Sep 28, 2015
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
Cool! I remember trying this this on TR a couple of times over the years. Thought it was some of the best rock at auburn and pretty difficult. I think I did all or most of the moves but was never close to linking it. Have to give it a try next time I'm up there! Dec 16, 2013
Hey has anyone experienced the "Invisible Flying Gargoyles" in the upper gorge? Something or things that are big that fly around that upper amphitheater around dusk... you can hear it very clearly... but not see it? Both my friend and I were certain it wasn't bats, and it knocked down a bunch of rocks. Very creepy. Dec 15, 2013
Rough  
Ahh that makes sense so kinda a "between" route starting on Handy and finishing on Mr Wipples? Sounds cool! I need to get back out to Auburn and get in on more new routes. Last I put up was Diagon Alley for my daughter and her Boyfriend to climb. Lots of potential for sure! Dec 15, 2013
Hi Aaron, Steve. I think Handy Capable diagonals right after it's third bolt, up into a faint dihedral and then diagonals back left, near the top. Gargoyles clips the first three bolts, then goes straight up past three new (glue-in) bolts, to join (I think) Mr Whipple's.

Does that make sense?

Steve how is that route you were cleaning shaping up?

I'd love a tour from you guys sometime. Dec 14, 2013
Saw you guys up there on Friday. Didn't realize you were putting up a new route....I was cleaning the wall on the other side from you. Good to see some additional Developement from some outsiders.

Can't wait to give it a try. Dec 14, 2013
Rough  
Hey Jim, good to see another new route going up! A quick question: Handy Capable trends left, so I am not sure if you meant that route or you do the first few bolts of Mr Wipples Wild Ride then go up. Dec 14, 2013