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Routes in Red Springs Rock

Allied Forces T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Attack Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Badger's Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boulder Dash S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eggs Over Sleazy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fine Line S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hook Line and Sinker S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mavericks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcurl T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rocky Road T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Dance, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,484 total · 62/month
Shared By: Randy Carmichael on May 11, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


Wow, this climb is pure joy. It is aesthetic, has fun jams, and good pro. Climb the prominent dihedral that first angles left, then angles right around a corner and out of sight. As you get near the top of the dihedral, you can step left into a bigger and easier crack/gully; or continue in the dihedral and escape with an easy off-width move. Belay at the top of the crack/gully using some smaller cams, or move higher and belay at the top of a flat ledge using a double sling around a big rock and some small cams. The total climb is about 100 feet.

To exit, down climb a short 4th class section and walk down the big ravine (South-West of the belay).

GETTING THERE: From the 1st picnic area at Red Rock Spring head West up the hill and to the right of Jabba The Hut Rock (the first band of rocks). Then, turn left (South) and scramble up a blonde 4th class ramp. This will place you roughly at the base of the Classic Corner.


Set of nuts and cams to 3"


Loved the route! It was a nice, worthwhile ,after work sort of climb,as it was completely shaded in the late afternoon, with a short, fairly straightforward approach and a friendly walk off. I used med-large nuts and some small cams up to a #3. I felt there was one "reachy" crux move approx. 25 feet or so up for this 5'2 woman(I abruptly blurted "Watch me!") ,but move was well protected, as was the rest of the climb. This climb left me smiling after being so miserable at work all day.Thanks to whoever put this route up! May 25, 2005
Salt Lake City, Utah
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
Fantastic route following the varnished crack; anytime you think it's getting a bit thin just throw some gear in the crack! New guidebook rates this climb 5.7 but we felt it would be closer to 5.8 for sure. Nov 22, 2006
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I thought that this was a true 5.8 compared to Red Rock's generally soft ratings. Handren rated it 5.8 in his new guidebook. A few grunty moves. Fun route to do when it is too cold/windy in the canyons. Feb 5, 2009
Ron Graham
Ron Graham  
This is a great route for a new 5.8 leader because the steep, smooth and slippery varnished face lets you take falls in many places without incurring any injuries other than to your pride. Also, there are multiple options for topping out; one option is to head left across the face around bulging rocks at the top, while another is to grab the rocks and pull over them. My favorite place to belay followers from is on top of those rocks because you can look down most of the length of the climb as you belay people up. A safe anchor can be built at that point with #4 and #5 cams and a slung chockstone in the big crack behind the bulge. Feb 26, 2009
Jeremy Taylor (JT)
Jeremy Taylor (JT)   NV
Great area to be when it is just too windy any where else, (like all of the month of March) :(
Supper cool route and defiantly 5.8 crack.
Great to see you Mark. Mar 25, 2011
Jay Holland
Marietta, GA
Jay Holland   Marietta, GA
This climb would get 5 stars if it were longer. Great corner and a close approach. Perfect climb if you only have a little time. Sep 30, 2011
Weston L
Summerlin, NV
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
I wish this climb went on for 1,000 feet! Oct 21, 2011
Just did the again for the .... time. I had forgotten how classic this thing really is. One of the best single pitches of 5.8 anywhere! Apr 22, 2012
A little too awkward to be much fun. Lots of graffiti and foot traffic from day hikers, but you never get far away from your packs. Dec 8, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
One of the guidebooks noted a set of singles to #2 friend or something like that. I launched with a similar rack and though, "how bad could it be" Turns out, it's sneaky slick for the first third of the route with kinda smallish gear. I would have gladly brought more stoppers and more 1/2" cams had I known. My recommendation would be to A) bring a set of doubles to 2.5" and maybe a single 3" for the top. B) Actually look at the crack for gear selection before just launching up it (cough) C) Don't fiddle, just run it out but I suspect that's not PC to say.

Pretty flat ledge up near the top and beyond a small bush for a good belay. Belay will take anything you've got left from 1/2" to 3". Easy walk off, climber's left. Mar 14, 2014
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
Face hold relief makes this an easy 5.8, it would be 5.5 if it were in Yosemite! Nov 3, 2014
Moab, UT
KB   Moab, UT
Must-do if you are looking for single pitch trad in red rocks that actually involves crack climbing! Lots of good rests and gear placements. Very enjoyable. Gladly, I didn't notice the small person crux move that someone mentioned above. Dec 4, 2015
Chase D
Chase D  
Classic indeed. I've led this pitch so many times and it's a blast every time! Definitely a solid Red Rock 5.8. Perfect climb for after work. 10 minute approach with a quick walk off. Jan 19, 2016

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