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Routes in Red Springs Rock

Allied Forces T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Attack Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Badger's Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boulder Dash S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eggs Over Sleazy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fine Line S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hook Line and Sinker S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mavericks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcurl T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rocky Road T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Dance, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,028 total, 14/month
Shared By: Andy Hansen on Jan 8, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Rocky Road is a tough little OW. If you're a fledgling OW leader this would be a good candidate to break into the grade. The crux is, obviously, well protected and short lived. However, the remainder of the climb will prove to be a challenge if this is your first foray into the wonderful world of offwidth.

There are two ways to start the climb: one way would be to start directly below Allied Forces and follow a finger to hand crack and pull the bulge using face holds and fire into the meat of Rocky Road. The other option would be to start about 15 to the right of Allied Forces and climb up easy (5.7) terrain into a 3" crack up to the bulging corner/crack. The obvious bulge is what you're looking at getting into. From there fire straight up the left-facing offwidth corner for 100 feet of grueling fun.

Location

To the right of Allied Forces in the obvious low angled left-facing corner.

Protection

Single Cams 4"-7"

Photos

Weston L
Summerlin, NV
  5.10-
Weston L   Summerlin, NV
  5.10-
This route is an unsung classic! Close to the road and wonderful climbing. The only detractor from it is the fact that the fists crux is a bit sandy...but that really isn't so bad. This thing looks deceptively easy from the ground...not so fast my friends! Great climb.

Would recommend singles 2-6" and small gear for the anchor at the top. Double it up if you aren't comfortable bumping gear or running it out a little.

Also, all of the guidebooks give this thing a .10, deservedly so...perhaps the page should reflect this? Oct 16, 2012