Type: Sport, 95 ft
Page Views: 975 total · 17/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Apr 19, 2014
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


An airy and varied line. Follows a zigzagging line of holds toward a seam that arcs through a steep headwall. Black slab with plentiful holds to a bulge initial crux around 10-, then up a slab to a vertical pocket and flake section, a good rest before the steepness,and then sequential movement up a reachy throw crux and pumping to the chains. A much easier red point than onsight.


The big face to the right of Rocky Road, this is the line on the right that starts up a black slab via face climbing.


13 bolts to ring anchors. Worthwhile on this line to bring some 24" slings for the bolts in the middle section to keep rope drag down, it's a long pitch and it follows an 'S' profile. 60 M rope required to lower.


Cunning Linguist  
This route was bolted ground up, no hooks, no chalk, no previewing. The grade has been the subject of a lot of discussion, I feel that anyone shorter than 5'8" may lean towards 12a, to my mind it's 11+/12- and a rad new addition to the Calico Hills. The throw move currently has a bunch of chalk on it, I feel that the un-tick marked state of the route is significantly harder. Overall a fun and entertaining first ascent that challenged all three of us to step up our game, done in the best style us gumbies could manage.

A historical note-when topping out, Nate stumbled upon an anchor apparently installed several years ago by someone who never took the step of bolting the route. This anchor was mixed metals and we replaced it with stainless bolts and rings at our own expense, and moved it to a better spot to clip. Early bird, worm, etc. Apr 19, 2014
MN norske
MN norske   Henderson
Slab climb with two steep sections. First steep section pulling the bulge down low (10aish) and the crux comes at the top (last three bolts). The holds until the crux are suspect. Tread lightly on a good portion of this climb. The rating felt soft for my party. I thought mid 11 or so. Great long climb that throws a lot of different styles at you. Get on it.

(Edit 3/15/15): I am 5.10 roughly. It could have been easier due to the fact that the crux had tick marks on it prior to our arrival. The climbs to the left look interesting and fun. You should put those up on here if you got the time. I didn't have gear big enough for the 9 but maybe next time. All in all this was a good route with varied climbing. Well done. Feb 18, 2015
Cunning Linguist  
Interesting that you thought of it as a slab, MN. One of the things I liked about Mavericks was the variety of angles it offered. Glad you liked the climb, I thought the quality on this one is definitely there and it was a blast to put up. The crux throw spit off a bunch of medium height people a few times, I thought that one move felt like V3/4 and with the pump factor 11C was the lowest it was going to get graded by just about anyone. How tall are you, out of curiosity? Thanks for posting up positive stuff regardless. If you're not into placing gear you can TR the line to the left by rapping in from the boulder on top, the rock isn't as good but it's funky, wild climbing and not worth missing. Btw the routes on the crag right to left are Mavericks, Ripcurl, Rocky Road, Love on the Rocks, Allied Forces, Contempt of Court, Unknown Sport Route (probably your permadrawed line). I replaced some of Love on the Rocks but the old Tupper bolts should be used with caution til they're all replaced. Half inchers in this rock are way more secure than old hardware store jobs. Feb 21, 2015
Bruce Burgess
Bruce Burgess  
My 5'5" wife found an unchalked wrapper jug up and left of said throw holds. Said the reach felt 11-. Feb 23, 2015
Cunning Linguist  
Loving the feedback. Wrapper jug above the crimps sounds right, pretty sure I drilled off or that rail feature after the crux move. not sure how that makes her rating 11- and yours 11+, since that hold is after the long move and it felt LONG to a couple 5'10" guys, but regardless glad to see that some NC folks got to enjoy my ground up route! Thanks for posting up, Bruce. Feb 24, 2015
Weston L
Fun route and a nice addition to the cliff. Lots of variety in movement and angle with some suspect holds that will clean off with time. Have your belayer wear a helmet, I almost got beaned in the head with a rock when my partner was following it.

Also, definitely bring the long slings (as mentioned in the description) for the middle section. I spaced on that until I had realized that this was that route I was reading about that suggested that. Doh! Feb 27, 2015