Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi? Vegas

[Hide Comment] Loved the route! It was a nice, worthwhile ,after work sort of climb,as it was completely shaded in the late afternoon, with a short, fairly straightforward approach and a friendly walk off. I used med-large nuts and some small cams up to a #3. I felt there was one "reachy" crux move approx. 25 feet or so up for this 5'2 woman(I abruptly blurted "Watch me!") ,but move was well protected, as was the rest of the climb. This climb left me smiling after being so miserable at work all day.Thanks to whoever put this route up! May 25, 2005

46and2 Salt Lake City, Utah   5.8

[Hide Comment] Fantastic route following the varnished crack; anytime you think it's getting a bit thin just throw some gear in the crack! New guidebook rates this climb 5.7 but we felt it would be closer to 5.8 for sure. Nov 22, 2006

Brian North Kingstown, RI

[Hide Comment] I thought that this was a true 5.8 compared to Red Rock's generally soft ratings. Handren rated it 5.8 in his new guidebook. A few grunty moves. Fun route to do when it is too cold/windy in the canyons. Feb 5, 2009

Ron Graham   5.8

[Hide Comment] This is a great route for a new 5.8 leader because the steep, smooth and slippery varnished face lets you take falls in many places without incurring any injuries other than to your pride. Also, there are multiple options for topping out; one option is to head left across the face around bulging rocks at the top, while another is to grab the rocks and pull over them. My favorite place to belay followers from is on top of those rocks because you can look down most of the length of the climb as you belay people up. A safe anchor can be built at that point with #4 and #5 cams and a slung chockstone in the big crack behind the bulge. Feb 26, 2009

Jeremy Taylor (JT) NV   5.8

[Hide Comment] Great area to be when it is just too windy any where else, (like all of the month of March) :( Supper cool route and defiantly 5.8 crack. Great to see you Mark. Mar 25, 2011

Jay Holland Marietta, GA

[Hide Comment] This climb would get 5 stars if it were longer. Great corner and a close approach. Perfect climb if you only have a little time. Sep 30, 2011

W L NEVADASTAN   5.8

[Hide Comment] I wish this climb went on for 1,000 feet! Oct 21, 2011

Patrick Mulligan Reno, NV

[Hide Comment] Just did the again for the .... time. I had forgotten how classic this thing really is. One of the best single pitches of 5.8 anywhere! Apr 22, 2012

Canon   5.8

[Hide Comment] A little too awkward to be much fun. Lots of graffiti and foot traffic from day hikers, but you never get far away from your packs. Dec 8, 2012

susan peplow Joshua Tree

[Hide Comment] One of the guidebooks noted a set of singles to #2 friend or something like that. I launched with a similar rack and though, "how bad could it be" Turns out, it's sneaky slick for the first third of the route with kinda smallish gear. I would have gladly brought more stoppers and more 1/2" cams had I known. My recommendation would be to A) bring a set of doubles to 2.5" and maybe a single 3" for the top. B) Actually look at the crack for gear selection before just launching up it (cough) C) Don't fiddle, just run it out but I suspect that's not PC to say. Pretty flat ledge up near the top and beyond a small bush for a good belay. Belay will take anything you've got left from 1/2" to 3". Easy walk off, climber's left. Mar 14, 2014

Micah K Denver, Co

[Hide Comment] Face hold relief makes this an easy 5.8, it would be 5.5 if it were in Yosemite! Nov 3, 2014

KB Moab, UT

[Hide Comment] Must-do if you are looking for single pitch trad in red rocks that actually involves crack climbing! Lots of good rests and gear placements. Very enjoyable. Gladly, I didn't notice the small person crux move that someone mentioned above. Dec 4, 2015

Chase D CA   5.8

[Hide Comment] Classic indeed. I've led this pitch so many times and it's a blast every time! Definitely a solid Red Rock 5.8. Perfect climb for after work. 10 minute approach with a quick walk off. Jan 19, 2016

William Thiry Las Vegas   5.8

[Hide Comment] Lot's of 5.7 with a few 5.8 moves. Well protected. Solid at the grade (would be 5.9 at Yosemite). Crack (hand, finger and fist possible), stemming, laybacking, mantles, and even some face climbing on great rock make it terrific.. If this climb went on for a few hundred feet it would be called Ultra-Classic Crack. Three-stars overall for it being just one pitch; four-star climbing. Aug 3, 2018

Keith Boone Henderson, NV   5.10

[Hide Comment] I don’t get all the hype regarding this corner. I found it slick, awkward and harder than its grade. Lots of gear opportunities if you want to sew it up. The approach isn’t exactly a walk up and requires quite a bit of 4th class unless there is an easier way we didn’t see. If you see a bail piece up there, it’s because we chose to drop our 70m rope down for a safety line. Don’t recommend hauling big packs or little kids up this one unless your prepared for a little more adventure. Dec 31, 2018

The Beagle

[Hide Comment] Keithb00ne - I understand that rock climbing can be difficult, and that new grades can be challenging. Not all things that are a little bit more difficult than you may be anticipating are bad - embrace the challenge. That, however, does not make a climb less quality. Perhaps there might be a skill that you may lack that this route is highlighting? Additionally, the approach referenced entails 10' of 3rd class. My suggestion? HTFU. Dec 31, 2018

Ashort Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Great climb at the grade! Super fun exit move out of the main corner. I think you could climb this thing many different ways, jam, face, stem, lie back, whatever. Could probably climb it 3 times and do completely different moves each time. Apr 1, 2019

Scott Kice Austin, TX

[Hide Comment] There are a pair of bolts to use for the anchor. They are off to the climber's left and slightly obscured by some bushes. A 70m rope will get you down with some to spare. Nov 21, 2020

Kristian And Marie

[Hide Comment] PULL ON LEFT After finishing the climb and when retrieving your rope, pull the left strand. There are two stuck cams (one could be booty). We mindlessly pulled the right strand, which got stuck on the upper perma cam. We climbed the route again using the other end of the rope. The route is less than 35m long, so we had enough rope to climb it again even when the other end was stuck. Dec 11, 2020

Michael Martin Flagstaff, AZ   5.8

[Hide Comment] Really classic route definitely worth checking out if you are in calico basin. A 60m will get you from the bolt anchor to the ledge 5ft above the belay after the rope stretches out. The anchor is a one bolt anchor that really needs to be tightened up a little bit. Would consider making a gear anchor and trying the walk off, the rap is a little suspect. Dec 20, 2020

David Shane Torino, IT   5.8

[Hide Comment] Parties lined up for Physical Graffiti so we did this instead - would definitely recommend! Easiest to walk off. Jan 6, 2021

William Thiry Las Vegas   5.8

[Hide Comment] Just a recommendation, but the anchors out left are short of the top (those are meant for Badger Buttress). For full value don't go out left, instead continue up the crack on the right for an additional 20 feet of very good climbing. A good ledge for gear belay awaits you, and then an easy scramble off the back of the formation down the gully gets you back to the base, no need to rappel and worry about rope drag. Feb 20, 2021

Alex Fletcher Las Vegas

[Hide Comment] The anchor on this route should be chopped. Its one bolt backing up a useless tiny tree with some wire. Total garbage and it’s in a silly spot. 8 feet further back on the same ledge is a great crack for a bomber hand sized gear belay. Easy walk off. Mar 18, 2021

Lou Hibbard Eagan, MN

[Hide Comment] If you go to the flat ledge on top via the right crack option it's much longer than 100 feet - more like 170 to 185 or so. I did not pull much rope up. Oct 31, 2021

Kyle O   5.8

[Hide Comment] There is currently no bolted anchor at the top of this climb. The lone bolt was removed. Build a gear anchor (hand size pieces are best) and do the easy walk off. Dec 21, 2021

Bryan K Las Vegas, NV

[Hide Comment] Overall a cool corner, but it definitely is awkward and if your crack technique isn't up to snuff then you'll be having a hard time on this route. Old school, tough 5.8 for sure. If this route is at your limit I would suggest bringing a double rack of cams up to BD #3. I was expecting a lot more good stopper placements the whole way up with the single rack that was recommended, but there's not much and the placements I got were not amazing since the crack is pretty parallel sided. Had to run it out a good bit at the top after already using all my cams lower in the crux sections. Since I didn't have any cams left for an anchor, I slung a big boulder at the top and had just barely enough rope with a 60m to do that. Oct 29, 2022

M Alexander SLO, CA   5.8-

[Hide Comment] So good! Some routes I am excited to be nearing the top, this one I felt sad knowing it was almost over. I am a risk-weinie, but I thought it was well protected except for the first 10 or 15', which are easy. The rest of the crack eats gear, especially in the .5-1 range. The walk-off is super easy, don't bother trying to rappel (plus the bolts are still gone). You just downclimb one move of 3rd, maybe 4th class, with no exposure and you have an easy 2 minute walk. The approach does require a few moves of easy 4th the way we went. We top-roped a climb at jabba the hut on our way down, which also allowed us to bypass the downclimb by rappelling from bolts on top. A variety of good crack techniques make this climb physically easier. I didn't find the rock to be slippery and didn't resort to smearing, there are plenty of features on the left wall and the crack is always foot-jammable. I haven't climbed much in Red Rocks, but it would be in the 5.7-5.8 range in Yosemite, easier than Bishops Terrace, but not by much. Oct 30, 2023