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Routes in Red Springs Rock

Allied Forces T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Attack Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Badger's Buttress T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boulder Dash S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eggs Over Sleazy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fine Line S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hook Line and Sinker S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mavericks S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ripcurl T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rocky Road T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Slab Dance, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not In My Back Yard) Town S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Weidner January 23, 2013
Page Views: 854 total, 14/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Feb 4, 2013
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route ascends the smooth and vertical varnished face about 15 feet right of Classic Corner (5.8). Expect a bouldery start and thin climbing throughout.

Location

From the base of Classic Corner scramble rightward up rock bobbles to a flat belay stance about 15 feet below the first bolt. Scramble to a small ledge to clip the first bolt.

Protection

7 bolts to chains.

Photos

Haha Mark, brilliant! Thanks for some great laughs!! Feb 8, 2013
Cool. Thanks for sharing. Here's to old dogs...SLow, SLobbering, SLuggish, SLumping, SLovenly, beer-SLurping, SLap-happy, SLumbering old dogs! Cheers to Slamball! Feb 7, 2013
Hey Mark, good to hear from you.
I didn't even see your anchors (great camouflage) - even with binoculars - until I'd rapped in from the very top of the cliff. They appeared old enough that I wasn't worried about the face being somebody's current project, especially having first scoped it over a year ago.

I placed a new anchor with 1/2-inch bolts about 8 feet lower (and removed your hangers), which made more sense for lowering.
The name is loosely related to our old dog Slamball, who likes it when we start words with the letters SL.

Thanks for the post. It's nice to know you put that anchor in and checked it out 12 years ago. The route is well worth doing.
Cheers, Chris Feb 7, 2013
Put some top-rope anchors in and eventually somebody will drill it up for lead! This has happened to my TR anchors more times than I can remember...which is just fine as I can't afford all those bolts/hangers. Glad somebody thought it was worth drilling up. I'm doubting this went in ground-up and instead, like I did 12 years ago, you banged a hard right half-way up Classic Corner. Does the name have some particular meaning? Feb 6, 2013