Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: George Urioste & Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 1,099 total · 6/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Thirty feet to the right of the Cadillac Crack is a 15-foot pedestal of white rock leaning against the darkly varnished face. Climb up and left from the top of the pedestal to a narrow catwalk ledge. Move left along the ledge until it is possible to climb up to a small left-facing dihedral. Follow this upward until it joins Cadillac Crack in the alcove below the final chimney and hand crack.


Cams from very small to hands, including at least one very small one.


George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Larry, perhaps you are too generous in handing out bomb ratings . Note the definition: "This route is a waste of time; it just plain sucked." From the photos, this route does not look like a waste of time. Note that the route poster CAN change routes they submitted, using the "Suggest a Correction" selection. I changed Centerfold from bomb to 1 star, for example. It seems like the majority of obscure routes are 1 star. Apr 25, 2004
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
George- you are right, it is a quite good route. I screwed up when I made the entry. Now I better check some of those othere routes too. Dark Arts should be solid 2 star rating at least. Apr 26, 2004
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
This route is awesome. Four stars out of five. It is well worth the hike to get to it!

The climb has a memorable traverse on a steep face where you must make 5.9 moves high above your first bolt. Higher up you enter a fun chimney which widens as you climb. Exiting the crack is exciting as you stem across the chimney with great exposure below you. Perfect hand jams lead you up a bulge to a nice ledge, where the climb ends. Feb 12, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.9 R
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.9 R
I’d call this solid “R”. There is 30’ and 60’ groundfall potential on non-trivial climbing. Yeah the crux felt reasonably well-protected, but getting there is a little dicey. Apr 14, 2018