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Routes in The Rad Cliff

Azkaban Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Basilisk Fang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cadillac Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chamber of Secrets, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Arts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementor, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Diagon Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Falling Rein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Rad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moaning Myrtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rita Skeeter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,059 total, 6/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Nov 30, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


At the eastern end of The Rad Cliff is a dark buttress with a prominent crack on its right side. Climb straight up the crack. Be careful passing a loose block about 30 feet up. When the difficulties ease, continue a short distance to a belay alcove where a narrow knobby catwalk leads to the right across a varnished face. The easiest exit is a 4th class traverse about 60 feet to the right to a rappel tree at the top of The Dementor. A two-rope rappel leads back to the base.An alternative exit is to continue up easy rock for a half pitch to the top of the buttress, then scramble down to the east.


Ordinary rack: finger-size through fists


Seattle, WA
Psychrophile   Seattle, WA
This is a super fun route, for the duration of the corner, but there are three things that are less great. 1- the exit right (traverse hard right and slightly downwards towards Dementor rap) means you need to climb with two ropes to avoid a ton of rope drag and a potential big swing for your second. 2- the rock isn't quite climbed clean, though another 100 or so ascents should fix that. 3- The Dementor tree rap is prone to stuck ropes. A couple rap bolts at this crag would elevate it from its second class status. Apr 20, 2016
Some nice moves but a little care is needed as the rock is a bit suspect in places. Nov 7, 2013
No dementors patrolling this route, I hope! Mar 25, 2004