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Routes in The Rad Cliff

Azkaban Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Basilisk Fang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cadillac Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chamber of Secrets, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Arts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementor, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Diagon Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Falling Rein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Rad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moaning Myrtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rita Skeeter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,059 total, 6/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Nov 30, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

At the eastern end of The Rad Cliff is a dark buttress with a prominent crack on its right side. Climb straight up the crack. Be careful passing a loose block about 30 feet up. When the difficulties ease, continue a short distance to a belay alcove where a narrow knobby catwalk leads to the right across a varnished face. The easiest exit is a 4th class traverse about 60 feet to the right to a rappel tree at the top of The Dementor. A two-rope rappel leads back to the base.An alternative exit is to continue up easy rock for a half pitch to the top of the buttress, then scramble down to the east.

Protection

Ordinary rack: finger-size through fists

Photos

Psychrophile
Seattle, WA
 
Psychrophile   Seattle, WA
 
This is a super fun route, for the duration of the corner, but there are three things that are less great. 1- the exit right (traverse hard right and slightly downwards towards Dementor rap) means you need to climb with two ropes to avoid a ton of rope drag and a potential big swing for your second. 2- the rock isn't quite climbed clean, though another 100 or so ascents should fix that. 3- The Dementor tree rap is prone to stuck ropes. A couple rap bolts at this crag would elevate it from its second class status. Apr 20, 2016
Some nice moves but a little care is needed as the rock is a bit suspect in places. Nov 7, 2013
No dementors patrolling this route, I hope! Mar 25, 2004