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Routes in The Rad Cliff

Azkaban Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Basilisk Fang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cadillac Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chamber of Secrets, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Arts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementor, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Diagon Alley T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Falling Rein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Rad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moaning Myrtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rita Skeeter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Jason Fico, Larry De Angelo
Page Views: 763 total · 7/month
Shared By: Andrew Carson on Apr 19, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Pretty good climbing starting on the left side of the formation, then trending up and right. There are some fragile edges and fins that will wear away with a few more ascents. The rock is generally sound and the climbing enjoyable.


A standard rack to 3" should do. It takes wires and cams and the pro is good.


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Be ready for loose stuff beyond the ledges. My wife pulled a chunk as large as her torso off this one. This along with the descent from the route makes you forget that the climbing is actually pretty good.

I used two cams as directionals for the second and stoppers exclusively for protection. Solid placements the entire way. Oct 31, 2009
  5.7 PG13
  5.7 PG13
LOOSE! Broke off both handholds simultaneously while above my first piece of gear. Thought I was going to deck into the scrub oak for sure. Spent the rest of the climb trying not to soil myself. Dec 3, 2012
Ben Townsend  
An elegant, easy climb. We encountered no loose rock to speak of. The Dementor rap is longer and brushier than one might expect from the guidebook. Nov 29, 2014

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