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Routes in The Rad Cliff

Azkaban Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Basilisk Fang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cadillac Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chamber of Secrets, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Arts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementor, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Diagon Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Falling Rein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Rad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moaning Myrtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rita Skeeter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 220 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry DeAngelo & Jason Fico
Page Views: 1,685 total, 9/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Feb 1, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


At the far eastern end of The Rad Cliff is a dark buttress featuring knobby varnished rock. Start on an obvious ledge that is easily reached by a variety of class 4 or easy 5th class options. Climb on knobby rock with all natural pro for a long pitch. There are many options for the exact route, but they all seem to be of reasonably the same difficulty. In general it seems that farther to the left the rock is more solid but the holds are a little smaller. From the belay, you can climb down and right (class 4) to the catwalk leading to The Dementor rappel, or follow easy rock up to the top of the buttress and scramble down and left.

The "fright" in the route name refers to a terrifying section of precariously balanced, darkly varnished plates encountered on the first ascent. Subsequent disassembly of the threatening obstacle has left a fairly sound and aesthetic climb.


Lots of small wired stoppers and slings, and some small to medium cams


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DayJohnson   AZ
Cool route! Climbed up the right side of the face. The pro is a little small and somewhat questionable in places / run out, but the climbing is really easy for 5.7 and the rock seemed OK. We traversed to the right across the top of Azkaban jam and rapped down The Dementor for a smooth exit. Feb 18, 2015
Ben Townsend  
Elegant, airy climb. The looseness seems to have abated. The descent is a bit involved: go up, scramble left and down to a rap down a slab, then traverse back right through a tunnel and scramble down to another rap. Nov 29, 2014
Loose! Dec 3, 2012
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
When we climbed it, the teetering stack of stones was still there. Our route went out to the left on small gear. Feb 7, 2006