The Chamber of Secrets
Avg: 2.5 from 21 votes
Routes in The Rad Cliff
|Azkaban Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Basilisk Fang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cadillac Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Chamber of Secrets, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Dark Arts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Dementor, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Diagon Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Falling Rein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fright of the Phoenix, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Get Rad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Moaning Myrtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rita Skeeter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Larry DeAngelo, Jason Fico|
|Page Views:||4,268 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on Apr 2, 2005|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionLarry DeAngelo really found a gem when he began developing The Rad Cliff, which lies to the climbers right as he/she is descending from Frogland. The Cadillac Crack is the most obvious climb from the descent and marks the beginning of the cliff.
The Chamber of Secrets can be found by following the cliff to a huge, low-angle, right leaning offwidth/chimney crack. Just to the right of this is the start of the route.
Pitch 1: Head up the gully to the base of the chimney. Ascend the vertical chimney to a nice ledge with good pro. 5.6, 100'
Pitch 2: After a somewhat interesting start (crux), one of the best handcracks in all of Red Rock appears, which is followed until you can step left onto a ledge. Walk 5' left and belay near a tree. 5.7+, 100'
Descent: Downclimb about 5' to a rappel station and rap once with two ropes. This amazing rappel takes you down Larry's testpiece- The Dementor.