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Routes in The Rad Cliff

Azkaban Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Basilisk Fang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cadillac Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chamber of Secrets, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Arts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementor, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Diagon Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Falling Rein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Rad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moaning Myrtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rita Skeeter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Larry DeAngelo, Jason Fico
Page Views: 4,268 total, 28/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Apr 2, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Larry DeAngelo really found a gem when he began developing The Rad Cliff, which lies to the climbers right as he/she is descending from Frogland. The Cadillac Crack is the most obvious climb from the descent and marks the beginning of the cliff.

The Chamber of Secrets can be found by following the cliff to a huge, low-angle, right leaning offwidth/chimney crack. Just to the right of this is the start of the route.

Pitch 1: Head up the gully to the base of the chimney. Ascend the vertical chimney to a nice ledge with good pro. 5.6, 100'

Pitch 2: After a somewhat interesting start (crux), one of the best handcracks in all of Red Rock appears, which is followed until you can step left onto a ledge. Walk 5' left and belay near a tree. 5.7+, 100'

Descent: Downclimb about 5' to a rappel station and rap once with two ropes. This amazing rappel takes you down Larry's testpiece- The Dementor.

Protection

A standard rack does well here, a second #2 camalot or equivalent would help for the second pitch.
Kneebar
SF, CA
Kneebar   SF, CA
It's fun dragging friends up here for some 5.7 humble pie. I like the two pitch version so belayer/leader are close thru the crux. 2 #2s work for the hand crack and a third if you want to back up the tree root anchor. Apr 3, 2016
Ben Townsend  
 
Burly for the grade. Standard rack to #4 Camalot, plus doubles on #2 and #3, seemed about right for doing the whole route in one pitch. Keeping the rope drag manageable is a challenge. Apr 19, 2015
Canon
  5.7
Canon  
  5.7
Does not look like much from the ground, but once you get up in it you'll realize how it got its name. Second pitch has a good hand crack. 2 #2s and a #3 would sew it up. Dec 3, 2012
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.7
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.7
We did the route as one long pitch and liked it. While the handcrack at the top was the best part, I found a couple "situations" getting to it to also be engaging. Doubles of #2 and #3 cams were very useful. Apr 18, 2011
Fink Fink
Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.7
Fink Fink   Jackson, WY & Bozeman, MT
  5.7
We climbed this as one long pitch. The upper hand crack is EXCELLENT. If the climb consisted of that for the entire pitch, it would be a red rocks classic. Unfortunately, there's some pretty definite adventure climbing for the first 100' to get to it. May 12, 2010
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.7
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.7
OK, OK, my first comment came after a 'mixed' day on this crag. Second visit, well, it's better than the above would indicate.
What happened to all the oak leaves? Clearly our first climb had some bad luck, maybe a big wind dumped the leaves all over the crag --- not really sure how to evaluate the conditions but I've gotta relent and say this is a worthy route. Don't get sucked out right of the crack/corner, as slings indicate has happened to at least one party.
And don't write a surly review, as I did, on a single encounter. It deserves better. Feb 14, 2010
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.7
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.7
This route was a real disappointment. Grungy cracks filled with scrub oak leaves, an uninspiring setting, and an underwhelming visual line add up to the question: why bother? But go ahead, see for yourself. Maybe you'll like it. Others certainly have. Apr 19, 2009