Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Larry DeAngelo & Paul Crosby|
|Page Views:||719 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionAbout 60 or 80 feet to the right of Azkaban Jam is an ominous triangular cave. This route climbs all the way into the back of the cave, then chimneys out to the lip.
Pitch 1: a short 4th class pitch leads to a belay spot just below the cave.
Pitch 2: jam the crack on the right, all the way into the back of the cave. Chimney down and out toward the lip. One or two hand-size cams can be placed near the lip. Jam out and set up a hanging belay just outside (to minimize rope drag). This is a bad pitch to fall from; even the second can take quite a swing and find themselves in prusik country.
Pitch 3: A short pitch leads up to the big ledge.
Rappel the route.