Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Larry DeAngelo & Paul Crosby
Page Views: 773 total · 5/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

About 60 or 80 feet to the right of Azkaban Jam is an ominous triangular cave. This route climbs all the way into the back of the cave, then chimneys out to the lip.

Pitch 1: a short 4th class pitch leads to a belay spot just below the cave.

Pitch 2: jam the crack on the right, all the way into the back of the cave. Chimney down and out toward the lip. One or two hand-size cams can be placed near the lip. Jam out and set up a hanging belay just outside (to minimize rope drag). This is a bad pitch to fall from; even the second can take quite a swing and find themselves in prusik country.

Pitch 3: A short pitch leads up to the big ledge.

Rappel the route.

Protection

Cams from finger-size to #4, with a few extra hand-size cams; also a few finger-size hexes

Photos

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