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Routes in The Rad Cliff

Azkaban Jam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Basilisk Fang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cadillac Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chamber of Secrets, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dark Arts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dementor, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Diagon Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Falling Rein T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fright of the Phoenix, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Get Rad T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moaning Myrtle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rita Skeeter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Joe Herbst & Randal Grandstaff
Page Views: 7,603 total, 41/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Oct 31, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

At the very base of the Whiskey Peak descent gully, on the south side, is a clean offwidth crack in a right-facing dihedral. Climb the offwidth past a small overhang to an alcove, then chimney and jam a handcrack to a large ledge. Rappel with 2 ropes.

Historical note by Larry DeAngelo: I was researching history for Red Rock Odyssey at the time of Randal Grandstaff's death in 2002. His widow, Laura, graciously allowed me to sift through an entire trunk of slides and photographs that Randal had taken. Among them was a picture of the the striking Cadillac Crack that had been taken in January, 1975. At the time, Randal was at the beginning of what was to become an illustrious climbing career under the tutelage of local master Joe Herbst. In light of Joe and Randal's friendship, and Joe's affinity for wide cracks, it is inconceivable to me that they did not climb this route. The name was given by me, inspired by Randal's Chrysler Crack (this one is a nicer ride!).

Protection

Bring the usual rack, plus some large stuff in the six-inch range. Update: recently (2006) a bolt has appeared to protect the crux section of the crack, so really large gear is not actually needed.
Scott Cooper  
 
I found the only gear you really will use is as many fours as you can carry, a couple 5's and two 1's and one 2.
Fantastic route, you get what you came for with this one. Nov 4, 2013
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
  5.9
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
  5.9
Agreed that no big gear is needed with the bolt in place. I had nothing bigger than a #4, and that worked. Could bring a #6 if the bolt is not enough. Jun 22, 2011